100 posts about my life and travel in Japan! Thank you for following me until now! I had hoped this 100th post would occur in better circumstances, and that it would be quickly followed by other travel accounts, however the covid-19 pandemic made tourism around the world crash and Japan is no exception.
While we are sitting at home waiting for new opportunities to roam around in the land of the rising sun, I decided to make some changes to my blog.
First, I decided to change the name. In the very beginning, my blog started out as a means to inform my family about my comings and goings during my stay in Matsumoto and it was written in Dutch. However I have come far in the meanwhile and the content became predominantly about travel in Japan with a little bit of info about practicalities for life in Japan. So it was about time that the blog name reflected that new content.
I also added a few menu's to provide an overview of the content of this blog. Under the tab "travel in Japan", I made an alphabetical list and a list per attraction/activity on top of the usual overview per prefecture. I hope this makes it easier to randomly search the blog entries.
As new outings will still be impossible for some time, for this 100th entry I would like to oversee where I have been until now and present you a top 10 of my favorite spots in the land of the rising sun.
Admittedly, there are many places that I haven't visited yet and that deserve attention. Additionally, there are some fantastic spots that I did visit but never wrote a report about. And of course, nothing is definite, so even this top 10 could changes according to circumstances like weather, season or even just the mood of the moment.
I also tried to make the top 10 a little bit varied. Every mountain that I climbed could figure in the list, but a little diversity never harmed anyone.
All in all making a top 10 is very difficult and depends on so many factors that some choices might seem a bit odd. That being said, I personally believe every of the 10 following entries is worth a visit!
1/ HISTORIC VILLAGE OF HOKKAIDO |
But I never wrote a report about it!
That being said, until now every place in Hokkaido that I have visited was worth the time and effort. All people that I have met over there were not only friendly, but also really open and maybe even a little bit quirky - in a very positive way that is.
So I wanted to put a place in Hokkaido on number one.
My choice fell on the Hokkaido Historical Village. I did not really expect anything much from this trip, but just like everything on this big island it just surprised me in such a positive way; it had beautiful nature, was historically and culturally relevant and it was just such a pleasure to stroll through.
2/ MATSUMOTO - KAMIKOCHI - MOUNT YAKE |
Those who know will be horribly surprised that Matsumoto does not figure on top of this list.
Don't get me wrong: I love Matsumoto and it will always be "home in Japan" to me. But that's mainly because of the memories made, the quality of life when actually living there and the people I still know and consider to be family.
Apart from that though, Matsumoto has a fantastic touristic card to play: Kamikochi. This valley is breathtakingly beautiful and has something to offer for every nature lover; from a leisurely stroll to full-on mountain climbing. The only condition is that you have to respect the nature and the space of others.
I have visited the well trotted Kamikochi grounds many times. The Taisho Pond, the Kappa Bridge, … they figure in every promotional picture and rightfully so. But one of the best memories I still have is the time I used Kamikochi as the access route to the active volcano Mount Yake. I was in great company, we were blessed by remarkably inaccurate weather forecasts and we just painfully enjoyed all the way up and all the way down.
Additionally, the nearby Norikura Heights also has some great power spots to offer like the Sanbondaki and Bandokoro Waterfalls, and all can be done in a single weekend.
3/ OKI ISLANDS - KUNIGA COAST |
Before COVID-19 there were some other powers beyond our control that could completely mess up a schedule. Like typhoons.
Last year, a typhoon was threatening my long awaited trip the Oki Islands. Many visitors canceled their plans, some voluntarily and others because ferries didn’t sail out. But I was incredibly lucky. One day before departure it seemed I might not even get in place, let alone do the things I wanted to. But I decided to take the leap anyway and boy, I do not regret it. My day of activities almost completely didn’t take place, but the people there showed me what personalized service really means.
And a little bit of wind didn’t stop me to walk along the unspoiled Kuniga coastline. Again I had all the place to myself. Until I returned to my lodging facilities where I was fully welcomed by a group of locals ready to scream karaoke.
4/ GUNKANJIMA |
Gunkanjima was long on my to-see list, and sometimes anticipating for something to happen results in disappointment when it actually does. Due to a typhoon that destroyed the landing pier I already knew I wouldn’t set foot on the island, but I was still very much looking forward to circling it by boat. Despite all my ridiculous expectations it did not disappoint.
It almost felt like I could touch the ruins. All the buildings made it easy to imagine the cramped living space of all the inhabitants. All this trip did was made me want to go again when the pier is restored.
My colleague once spent a night in his tent on the island before the organized tours began. I’m not a hero like that, so hopping on a tour boat is the next best thing.
5/ SHIRAHAMA |
Two years in, the infamous Japanese working rhythm had already caught up with me (is it really "working" though?). I’m lucky that my workplace allowed me to call a temporary halt and take a break. It was only for a few days, but my day-trip to Shirahama made me rediscover the beautiful country I was residing in. I visited out of season so I had the place mostly to myself. Additionally the weather served me my favorite dish: sunshine with a lot of wind.
I had been writing blogs for quite a while, but Shirahama made me decide to write down my trips and as such, it became the first actual post of the website as we know it now.
6/ OSOREZAN |
It feels like ages since I last visited Tohoku. I’ve been a few times to Sendai, but even more up north, there’s a whole space that’s even unknown to the average Japanese person. The whole area north and west of Sendai and South of Hokkaido is really like a different Japan.
I’m lucky I had the chance once - long ago though – to travel up there. I left me with some good memories: the rock lp-record bar in Akita, the climb up Yamadera, but most of all the very first day of my trip when I was exhausted and wanted nothing more than a soft bed to crash in. Instead I visited Osorezan, an eerie place that felt haunted and that proves the weather doesn’t always have to be sunny to leave the best impression of a scene.
7/ KYOTO'S ARASHIYAMA |
Together with Tokyo, Kyoto figures on most every list of first-timers to Japan. When I visited Kyoto for the first time in 2005, the place already felt rather crowded, but not to the point that it was not enjoyable. Recent years have seen a gigantic change though (pre-COVID-19 of course), and I have been avoiding the place because apart from its horrible climate (either too hot or too cold) it was just constantly teeming with tourists.
Two years ago however, my nephew visited Japan for the first time and he wanted – predictably – to visit Kyoto. I planned to show him Arashiyama, the place in the ancient capital that left the deepest impression on me so many years ago.
While the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge (honestly, I still don’t understand what’s iconic about it) was packed and didn’t seem to be a good omen for the rest of the day, I was pleasantly surprised to find that most tourists didn’t make the effort to go further than Tenryuji, which left us to (re-) explore the more tranquil gems of the Arashiyama neighborhood at our own pace.
I like the whole feel of the area, but for me the Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple really stands out and it is my favorite temple along with the strange Tsubosaka Temple near Asuka.
8/ UNKNOWN KARATSU |
Generally speaking, if you ask me what to do in Kyushu, I will automatically promote the Kyushu Olle walking courses. I first walked one in Takachiho and kept on walking them if they were nearby.
These walking courses are not spectacular. However, they take you to and through places that deserve attention but are rarely promoted. They show you rural life in Japan with all its quirks and charms. And they teach you to slow down and enjoy.
I adored the Takachiho course. I was more surprised however by the Karatsu walking course as it did not have a famous powerspot such as the Takachiho Gorge to boast, but it still left an incredible impression. The Nagoya Castle Ruins, the coastline, the fields and the finish with its small eateries. I remember it as an almost perfect day.
9/ NAOSHIMA |
Strangely overlooked by Japanese tourists, Naoshima and the surroundings art islands are wildly popular with international tourists. The setting of some top notch art installations and a few of the best art museums in a rural and natural setting has been executed to perfection.
I only spent one day on both Teshima as Naoshima, only visited the few spots that were open, but I was sold. I find this an absolute must-see for everyone in the vicinity, even though it might be a bit tricky to get to.
10/ STRANGE SITE OF REVERSIBLE DESTINY |
Not only overlooked by Japanese tourists but by probably everyone, is this really peculiar oddity in Gifu Prefecture. Putting it in my top 10 might be controversial, but I really had a blast at the Site of Reversible Destiny. Circling the place from outside it was quite clear that this would be either 100% fun or 100% wtf. It’s both, and for a full 100%. It is so strange but so intriguing that I couldn’t find myself to leave. I actually came for the nearby Yoro Waterfall, but this amusement park? Art installation? Whatever it is was just so much more impressive and memorable. Really, you need to go and see for yourself to understand.
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