The Ruins and Splendor Around Mount Takatori

What?
Mount Takatori (高取山) is with 584 meters not that impressively high, but it would have been in the heyday of Takatori Castle (高取城). Currently only the stone walls of this once majestic castle remain, but they show enough of the grandeur it used to have. On the mountain slopes numerous stone carvings of deities can be found, and at the foot of the mountain also Tsubosaka Temple (壺阪寺), a large and interesting temple that is underrated just like the castle ruins.
Where?
Located in Nara Prefecture (奈良県) near Asuka (飛鳥), both the castle ruins as Tsubosaka Temple can be reached from Tsubosakayama Station (壺阪山駅). Buses run a few times a day to the temple, but hiking all the way is so much more rewarding.
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Hiking in Japan JCastle Japan Travel

Getting off at the station, you immediately feel that this is not the touristic town the billboards in front of the station want you to believe. Nonetheless, once you cross the big street it’s clear that you are in a castle town of which the village around the keep is still very well preserved. I was not surprised by the original feel of the street, but by the sheer length of it! It takes a while before you hit the actual trail head. From that trailhead the path immediately goes up to the castle ruins. The mountain is not very high, so the ascent is at moments a bit steep, but never long enough to tear you down. The first real interesting spot is the statue of a monkey. It was exactly like the ones I saw in Asuka, so it’s no surprise the path next to it actually takes you there. Right after that there’s a quaint little pond that reminded me of the one on Mount Rokko, but it’s only from right after that that I became really impressed with the hike. The reason are the big castle foundations that still stand, although overgrown. They lay out a path the same way that they used to probably do. The place they lead to is the keep, although also from this only the ruins are left. But they are big, impressively big. And magnificent. And here and there it’s possible to enjoy some inspiring vistas. There were quite a few people, but not to the point of being bothersome. But seeing as this was during golden week, you’re probably all alone on a regular weekday. Leaving the castle grounds I was a bit disappointed to notice a parking lot nearby, but the path quickly resumed inside the lush forest only to reveal the next treasures. That is, if you pay careful attention. I was expecting to find some stone carved deities, but I literally had to stumble and fall to notice the first ones. When I lost my balance I caught a glimpse of faces staring at me. It was scary, fascinating and titillating at the same time. After that the numerous other carvings are more easy to recognize because of signage, but nonetheless they created an ethereal atmosphere. Truly impressive. So when finally hitting the paved road again I was convinced this was the end of the interesting part of the hike… Until I saw a huge Buddha head through the foliage and the beauty of the valley beyond.

The same monkey as in Asuka.

Signs pointing to the castle ruins.

The walls are very impressive.

These carvings I found while stumbling.

The hike through the forest leads all the way to Tsubosaka Temple. I never heard of this temple, but seeing it in person makes me wonder why. There is everything you could want from a touristic temple: there’s an impressive hall, a pagoda, a 10 meter high buddha statue, but also a lying one and what I found most interesting: wall carvings that depict passages from sacred scrolls. Maybe the one criticism could be that there is too much of everything in one place, but I honestly did not care. I easily spent an hour strolling the grounds gaping at the interesting statues and fascinating carvings. One of the more interesting temples I have visited, without a doubt.

But even then the walk was not finished. After leaving the temple and taking the very small path next to the bus stop on the parking lot, I got thrown into the woods again. The descent was pleasant and I was all alone at this small spot of unspoiled land – and this during golden week!! The highlight of this latter part of the hike was something which you cannot show in pictures: the carefree call of the frogs hidden in the forest. Leaving this last patch of trees, the trail wriggled through the outskirts of the town. The layout of the streets and various antique looking buildings made it easy to imagine you’re really walking in a castle town. People also greeted me in a very friendly way, but maybe the lack of other tourists to welcome was a sad cause for that. In any case, arriving at the station I was truly and honestly disappointed the hike was over. This hike, this place, these people deserve more attention and they go right up in my top 5!