Exploring history in Asuka

What?
While Japan as a land exists for far longer than any evidence can show us, Japan as an entity, a state if you like, found its origins approximately 2000 years ago on a plain in current Nara Prefecture called Yamato. Asuka (both written as 飛鳥 and 明日香) was one of the places where early power was wielded and saw the rise and fall of numerous emperors. Currently Asuka is a small town, but it still wears its past with pride. Ancient burial grounds, temples and ruins are scattered across Asuka and its neighbouring villages, which all can be visited quite comfortably by bicycle.
Where?
The town of Asuka is located in Nara Prefecture (奈良県) and can be easily reached from Osaka with the Kintetsu Line with starting point in the Osaka-Abenobashi Station, near the Tennoji subway station. You’ll find a tourist information center and a rental bike shop immediately when you exit Asuka Station (飛鳥駅).
URL
Japan Guide Outline Asuka Village Asuka Historical National Government Park

Asuka is often described as the birthplace of Japan and the first emperors, but now it's a sleepy town. I can only imagine how the place used to be bustling, but the current status of sleepy town is fully justified.

My first stop was Saruishi, a group of old stones carved in the shapes of animal and/or gods. Despite being locked behind an old rusted fence and chain, the surroundings (a tumulus of emperor Kinmei and farmer’s lands) and quiet of the place made it a mesmerizing experience. It wasn’t fantastic, but it sparked the imagination and it immediately put me in the mood to want for more. So I headed to my next destination, the Takamatsuzuka Tumulus.

I know it’s impossible to stop civilization and that roads and cars must be part of the current world. It stuns me though as why anyone would want to build a busy road right through the park. It’s not the first time I encountered this phenomenon and unfortunately it influences the experience too much in a bad way. True, Asuka doesn’t have any spectacular or thrilling sights. Nor is it a place where you can reminiscence and contemplate life. It has no sights that struck awe. But it does have something. It has ancient ruins and burial grounds for which you have to use your imagination to appreciate. And the town of Asuka clearly helps you with that by keeping all clean and well maintained. But then you hear the roar of cars and buses and it really spoils it all…
Anyway, that’s enough ranting for now. When you get deep enough into the park around the Takamatsuzuka umulus the noise dies down and Asuka returns to its status as sleepy town. The tumulus was small (not at the time) and a replica, but it is unique in the sense that all the originals are overgrown and almost impossible to discern with the naked eye. The small museum next door let’s you see what is buried between the 2 layers of earth. I was surprised that even so many years ago there were artists that knew how to draw beautifully.

After leaving the park I strolled through town on a path often trod by tourists. But it’s quiet, it’s peaceful, it’s exactly as advertised: the sleepy town with an ancient atmosphere. Along the road there are several ancient artifacts, like the tomb split in two or the rock carved with a turtle’s face. Together with the many farmer’s fields it makes for a nice stroll towards 2 of Asuka’s main attractions: the Ishibutai Tumulus and the Okadera Temple (officially called Ryugaiji). The tomb was interesting as it is uncovered and you can enter. Well understood, there are no ornaments or drawings left in the place. Instead I got a friendly volunteering grandpa explaining how the place used to look like. These volunteers can be found at several places and really give the experience that extra something, but unfortunately English is still an obstacle too big to overcome.
Also the temple had something special. It has been a long a time that I visited a temple and the very steep entrance wasn’t very appealing, but while the grounds were quite small they were authentic and strange enough bustling and still at the same time. The small pagoda is beautiful and is built at a spot with a great view on the town.

Takamatsuzuka Tumulus.

The tranquil Asuka landscape.

Kameishi or Tortoise Stone.

Ishibutai

Leaving the temple it’s again a stroll through fields, sites of ancient ruins, small shrines and temples (like Asuka Temple, said to be the oldest in Japan) and ancient artifacts like a kind of tub in the shape of a turtle (again) as part of some irrigation system (although it might as well be something ritualistic). The stroll eventually leads to Amakashi-no-Oka, a hill of approximately 150 meters in the middle of town, which is great for a daily walk for your dog should you live nearby. I’m not trying to make it sound ridiculous, it’s really a nice forested area with viewing platforms that oversea the whole valley, but it’s not really special.

“It’s not really special” can be said about everything in Asuka. But I did find it very much worth the effort to come over. The place was clean, pretty, quiet and with a “my pace” atmosphere. Most of Asuka’s attractions are barely visible as they are buried under either very small mountains or very big molehills, or are not visible at all because all that remains are ruins. Nevertheless I found it possible to let the imagination run its course and I was intrigued by most of what I saw. Whether it is worth the time to come here is something everyone needs to decide for themselves. Everything can be seen on foot or by rental bicycle (which is very well organized and promoted), so if you like a good walk or leisurely cycling, than by all means stop by.