Gunkanjima - Industrial Revolution Out of Control

What?
Gunkanjima (軍艦島) – officially called Hashima (端島) – is an island off the coast of Nagasaki (長崎). At one point in time it became the most densely populated area in the world under impulse of Mitsubishi Corporation who were set to fully exploit the coal mine. They raised the first Japanese concrete apartment block on this island, and afterwards many more, leaving no speck of the island unused. The wages for the (Japanese) workers who wanted to spend their life on this clump of earth were rather good, which led to every household on the island owning a television in the sixties, while in the rest of Japan it was only 8%. The end of the mine came in 1974, and the island became uninhabited very quickly. While the island used to look like a 24 hour lit amusement park from afar, currently it only looks like an ghost battle ship (Gunkanjima meaning battleship island) from the right angle. In 2015, part of the island was recognized as Unesco World Heritage as part of "Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution".
Where?
Some 20 kilometers south of Nagasaki Port, this island can only be reached by boat. Tour operators depart from Nagasaki Port which is a pleasant 30 minute stroll from the station, or alternative you can take the street car and get off at Ourakaikandori stop (大浦会館通り), although this may differ depending on the boat company.
URL
Japan Guide Outline Visit Nagasaki

I have always been intrigued by the many, many abandoned places in Japan. Visiting these places is called urbex, and in Japanese haikyo. I truly got the itch to do it myself after visiting this website, but eventually I’m a coward and I was afraid of getting busted and that this might affect my very positive visa status in Japan. It also kept me away from Hashima which is now far better known as Gunkanjima.
Technically speaking, it was never illegal to set foot on the island. It still isn’t illegal now; if you find someone willing to get you there, you can move around freely – this explains the presence of a handful of fishermen on Gunkanjima.

That being said, although urbex explorers might find it deplorable – I was happy when boat companies started organizing group tours. All of them circle the island, and when the conditions at sea allow it, let you get off at and lead you around a restricted part of the former coal mine.
I was extremely lucky with the weather. Although October, it felt like a mild summer day and there was absolutely no wind. Unfortunately, a few days earlier, one of the many typhoons this year damaged the landing pier making it impossible to actually visit the island until further notice. Of course I was disappointed, but I wasn’t in seeing the island from the boat. The island is truly mesmerizing. It’s baffling how more than 5000 people lived cramped upon each other on this tiny speck of land. Without protection from the weather, people had nothing better to do than watch typhoons crashing waves on the lower houses from the rooftops of the blocks located on higher ground. The nickname “battleship island” is fully justified as it’s nearly impossible not to see the shape from the correct angle. The operators bring along staff that can tell about details of the life on the island, but even if you can’t understand Japanese, the mere sight of these ruins tell more than enough.

Some SDF ships in repair.

The island comes in sight!

Completely abandoned.

Deserted blocks behind a concrete wall.

As consolidation for not being able to land on Gunkanjima, the boat brought us to nearby Takashima where there was a small museum with tools of the miners and various documents on display. It wasn’t impressive, but did give extra background to the story of the island and their inhabitants.

Taking one of the boat tours will take half a day, and in my opinion it is fully worth it. I would say: go and see the place while you still can. It’s not sure how much longer the crumbling buildings can withstand the forces of nature.

Near the docks in Nagasaki there is a rather new virtual reality museum about Gunkanjima, but honestly speaking the price of 2800 yen was too big of a hurdle for me. If you have visited it, don’t hesitate to share your opinions in the comments.