Gunkanjima part 2 - Digital and Real Life Landing

What?
Gunkanjima (軍艦島) – officially called Hashima (端島) – is an island off the coast of Nagasaki (長崎). At one point in time it became the most densely populated area in the world under impulse of Mitsubishi Corporation who were set to fully exploit the coal mine. They raised the first Japanese concrete apartment block on this island, and afterwards many more, leaving no speck of the island unused. The wages for the (Japanese) workers who wanted to spend their life on this clump of earth were rather good, which led to every household on the island owning a television in the sixties, while in the rest of Japan it was only 8%. The end of the mine came in 1974, and the island became uninhabited very quickly. While the island used to look like a 24 hour lit amusement park from afar, currently it only looks like an ghost battle ship (Gunkanjima meaning battleship island) from the right angle. In 2015, part of the island was recognized as Unesco World Heritage as part of "Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution". There are several operators who organize tours which let you set on the island, and afterwards circle it so you can see why it is called battleship island. One of these - Gunkanjima Concierge - opened the Digital Gunkanjima museum in 2015.
Where?
Some 20 kilometers south of Nagasaki Port, this island can only be reached by boat. Tour operators depart from Nagasaki Port which is a pleasant 15-30 minute stroll from the station, depending on the boat company. The Digital Gunkanjima Museum is located farther away. It’s either a 30 minute walk, or you can get off at the Ourakaikandori street car stop (大浦会館通り).
URL
Japan Guide Visit Nagasaki Gunkanjima Digital Museum

I have been to Gunkanjima before. Last time however, despite fantastic weather, we weren’t able to set foot on the island due to a typhoon which had damaged the landing pier. We didn’t complain, because we got to sail closely to the island and we were afterwards dropped on nearby Takashima for a guide to the small but interesting museum regarding the Mitsubishi industries activity in the region- including Gunkanjima. Now that I was in Nagasaki again, I would be able to try again!

This time I tried with a different company. Again I find that I was lucky. True, the Gunkanjima concierge boat had an open roof, perfect for the viewing that we did 3 years ago, but the Yamasa Shipping Company opens the day, so if you’re able to make a landing, you can approach the island without any other ship obstructing the view. And of course I was also lucky with the weather: not even the slightest wave on the calm sea.

I’m glad I came here again. As visitor, you are only allowed to walk in group and on a very small part of the island. But setting foot here and actually be able to see the crumbling buildings from so nearby… it’s again a completely new experience. While last time I had more eye for the apartment blocks, this time the mining part of the island came alive, as the route does not go near the old resident area.
It’s strange how these abandoned buildings which meant nothing to me can speak out so much. Is it because you can actually see a sort of complete mini town (go to waste)? I don’t know.

The mine with an appartment block in the background.

The seawall plastered with special stones.

Decay.

Calm sea...luckily.

Because I am really fascinated by the island and because I had a little time left, I decide to enter the pricy digital museum. Last time I skipped it just because of that high price.
The museum left me with a double feeling. For all those like me who have many questions, I recommend a visit. For people who are only mildly fascinated by Gunkanjima - I understand that the price puts you off.

The museum tried to be as modern as possible but only partially succeeds. There is of course the fact that it is located in an old building, and it’s hard to conceal that. The more obvious problems are easy to fix - that is in my opinion. Firstly, there is a problem with delayed audio, insufficient translations and simple language errors. It’s perfectly possible to follow and understand everything (as far as the English language goes, I think this must be one of the better museums in Japan), but for that price I honestly expect something spotless. The audio errors are just sloppy work.
Secondly, there are some exhibits which are just filler material. All the art, truthfully said, it’s just unnecessary and uninteresting. The 4th floor looked promising but was dedicated to kids. Now tell me: how many kids find this an interesting subject? Right, very few. The result: an as good as wasted floor.

But the good points are equally important: the opening show with live introduction was very well done, mixing old pictures and 3D technology. Many of the videos - despite audio issues - are truly interesting to keep you focused from start till end. There are the usual ones: former inhabitants talking about their experience, a historical overview, but also less obvious ones: for example a look at the island from architectural point of view.

I was cloistered to the videos so long that staff came to ask me whether I forgot to board one of the ships leaving for the island. And still I wished for more. More witnesses, more facts, more material!
Or for example, the VR experience: it was very nice, but I wanted to go inside the buildings, I wanted to take my time which is needed for such a “holy” place.

Let me end by saying that it is a good museum. For that price though, I expect it to be very good.