Nokonoshima - Back to Childhood



What?

Nokonoshima (能古島) is an island a mere hour away from metropolis Fukuoka (福岡). While having a small museum, a shrine and some 17th century kilns, the island is best known for the Nokonoshima Island Park (のこのしまアイランドパーク). The park in its turn is best known for its flower beds which are to be admired all year through, however it is mainly a big outdoors space where you can have good old unadulterated outdoor fun.

Where?

Nokonoshima is part of Fukuoka in the prefecture with the same name (福岡県). It can only be reached by ferry. The easiest way to get to the boat is to step on bus number 300, 301 or 302 departing at the Hakata Bus Stop A. These buses have as final stop the Noko Ferry Terminal (能古渡船場) where you have to get off. The ferry terminal is right in front of the bus stop. When landing on Nokonoshima, a bus line runs between the ferry terminal and Nokonoshima Island Park. Alternatively, a one hour and a half walk will also get you there.


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Nokonoshima Island Park
Gaijinpot Travel

I have been to Fukuoka several times for work. I always had a good time, with the people being warmhearted and rather direct, the food tasty and in abundance, and the drinks… well, there are the drinks of course. I’ve been to the Hakata area during the day and in the evening, I’ve been to the Tenjin area during the day and in the evening and I’ve endangered the famous Fukuoka food stalls – only during the evening. I’ve had fun, and if I ever have to go there again for work, it would be with pleasure.
The problem with Fukuoka though – much like a lot of big sprawling cities – is just what is described above. It’s all about the food, the drinks, the good time. I have already written it in my post about Osaka, but I would say the same about Fukuoka: if you ask about the touristic attractions in the city, there are close to none.

So there we were. We had half a day to spend in Fukuoka but didn’t have a clue about what to do. So the Tourist Information Center in Hakata Station came with a solution. It’s possible to visit an island with flowers blooming the whole year through in merely an hour from Hakata Station: Nokonoshima. So that was where we would be heading.

The bus station in Hakata is quite chaotic, especially for Japanese standards. We waited at the Hakata Station Bus Stop A where it was a coming and going of buses without much order or system in either the endless stream of buses or the people waiting. Eventually we boarded bus No. 302 and although it should have taken 42 minutes, one hour later we were standing ready to board the ferry.


Buses on the small island where much better organized. Several buses were waiting for the ferry to arrive and carried most people straight to the Nokonoshima Island Park where all the flowers would be. I have read a report about someone travelling the whole of the island, but as we didn’t have a lot of time we went straight to the park. Truth to be told, apart from the authentic rural character of the island, there didn’t seem to be much spots of interest anyway.

The park itself wasn’t as big as I expected. There also weren’t as many flowers as I expected – mostly because of the warm weather despite several strong typhoons wreaking havoc. The main flower field is in the back of the park with great vistas of Fukuoka and the sea in between. But apart from admiring flowers, there are some other things to do.
For children, this place must be heaven, with large patches of grass that you can freely trod on, a football field with real grass (quite rare in Japan), a field and net to play either volleyball or badminton, a small petting zoo with bunnies and full-bellied goats, playthings that I would have spent entire days on when I was 10, and if your parents allow it: it’s possible to camp and spend the night. But it’s not a park only for kids: the nice views of both flowers (if they are blooming of course) and Fukuoka make for a great picnic site for families and couples. It was pleasantly crowded at the park and most people were just enjoying themselves, throwing Frisbee, playing soccer, or just having a beer while admiring the views.

Right in the middle of the park there is also a short “nostalgia street”, with a somewhat misplaced old telephone booth (which actually works), a nice little café, some very retro souvenir shops, the art gallery of an illustrator for children and a place where you can try out pottery making.

I couldn’t say this place is highly recommended. While it’s relatively easy to get to, it might not be worth the time and money. But I did fully enjoy the very relaxed and laidback atmosphere in the park. Everything’s fine, nothing’s “dame” (ダメ) as they say in Japanese (“forbidden”).
It has been a while since I encountered a place in Japan where warning signs didn’t loom every 2 meters (watch your step, watch your head, watch the wall, watch the grass, watch the fly, …), so in that sense Nokonoshima was a pure breath of fresh air.



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Yoris

Just dwelling away.

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