Okinoshima - No Need to Choose Between Mountain or Sea

What?
Nomenclature for the Okinoshima Islands (隠岐の島) is difficult. This group of islands off the coast of Shimane Prefecture (島根県) consists out of 4 different islands. The smaller three (Nishinoshima (西ノ島), Nakanoshima (中ノ島) and Chiburijima (知夫里島)) are called the Dozen Islands (島前), the biggest of the 4 is called Okinoshima (隠岐の島) as well as Dogo Island (島後) . On such small and remote islands, the best thing to do is to adjust to the island pace of life, but of course there are some other attractions as well. Today I planned to admire the Ozuku Coastline (大津久海岸) from a kayak at sea, climb the nearby Takadayama (高田山・315m) for a view on the Dozen Islands, and afterwards maybe drive a little bit around, taking in scenery like the Dangyo Waterfalls (壇鏡の滝) .
Where?
Okinoshima can be reached from Sakaiminato (境港) in Tottori Prefecture (鳥取県) by ferry, but is part of neighboring Shimane Prefecture. Alternitavely and more easily, Okinoshima can also be reached by plane from the ironically named Osaka International Airport (大阪国際空港), the domestic airport known as Itami Airport (伊丹空港 - which is located not in Osaka but Hyogo). It is possible to get around on Okinoshima by bus, and even though the buses ride out fairly often for a such a small island, good planning is essential. Some people I met here rented a cycle. Distance-wise it is certainly doable, but the island is shaped from volcanic activity, so that means many ups and down which even with an electrical bicycle are a challenge. I chose for the option that gave me the most freedom, meaning that I rented a car.
URL
Visit Oki Islands Oki Geopark Tour

5 years ago, a typhoon almost spoiled my kayaking experience in Nishinoshima. And while there was no typhoon anywhere near today, strong winds again would keep me waiting until the last minute.
Luckily for me – again – I was the only participant for today’s kayak tour. In my experience, it pays to book on a weekday, because when the guide called me he said he’d cancel for a group, but because it was a one-on-one tour he would go through with it.
The sun shone high and it was again a beautiful day. I wondered why the guide called me the evening before to announce they would only decide on the day itself. But it soon became clear. The wind that passes Okinoshima flies through the mountains and hills from the east, ensuring that on every unprotected patch on the Westcoast strong gusts would make the sea very rough – almost too rough for a small kayak.

But again – here I was admiring the coastline of Okinoshima. While Nishinomiya might have the more dramatic coastline, caves and arches, the geological features of Okinoshima are something awe-inspiring. This island is made by a volcano eruption uncountable years ago, but it still is visible today. Vertical and horizontal patterns in the stone can show you which way the lava erupted – many small caves and holes are silent witnesses to underground lava currents. I seriously couldn’t stop staring at these beautiful patterns.
The furthermost point of the tour was a cove with two deep caves, crystal blue waters and a small waterfall – absolutely breathtaking.

I already noticed some winds and small waves during the trip towards this cove, but in going back I fully understood why the guide considered cancellation. Very strong gusts of wind made for a fairly rough sea which made the paddling quite hard. Staying close to the shore wasn’t difficult for me, but if the guide needed to watch 10 other customers it is very understandable that he would refuse the responsibility. Whatever the case, I was alone and had a great time. The instructor also recommended some bars and restaurants on the island which I gladly visited later that day.

Feeling indredibly tiny.

Emerald blue thanks to the morning light.

Just speechless.

The trailhead to Mount Takada is a bit difficult to find.

From the sea to the mountains.
Not far from the office of the kayak place stands the Takadayama peak. At 315 meters, you might not want to call this a mountain, but I considered it a tough hike; preparations necessary.
First of all, I think I was the first today to take the path up to the peak – I might have even been the first in many days. I say this because of the sheer amount of spiderwebs. While there are no harmful spiders in Japan, they did make me pick up a stick and swipe with it before me the whole of the way up.
Secondly…. The climb is steep! In several places it was necessary to pull yourself up with the ropes hanging in place. Do this while swiping a stick up and down, and you’ll realize that it wasn’t an quick and easy climb.
Nonetheless, I again got much satisfaction out of my activity: the forest of Takadayama is lush and full of variety. The few viewpoints offer fantastic vistas over the coastline and the Dozen Islands. Again, I felt myself ridiculously lucky with the perfect weather and circumstances.
For anyone attempting to do this climb: bring gloves (to grab the ropes) and maybe a walking stick (to spare your knees in the decent).

When I got down it was almost 2 o’clock and I was pretty tired. But as I didn’t want to return to the hotel yet at this early hour, I made a few stops with my car along the way.
First I drove to the Dangyo Waterfalls, a set of two very high cascades elected as one of the 100 best waterfalls of Japan. While very high, the falls seemed more like drizzle, a shower of mist to me. They certainly weren’t without charm: on the eastern waterfall – the “female” one – red rock layers were eye-catching; the western – “male” – waterfall had an ethereal feel about it. I wouldn’t elect them – apart or as a combination – in the best 100 waterfalls of Japan though.

I passed a few other points which will follow in a later entry.
After a satisfying yet tiresome day I met some locals at a souvenir/bar shop where I stayed until the place closed… which according the islanders should already be at 6:30pm!