Miyazaki Coastline – Sun, Blue Skies and Beach?

What?
The coastline of Miyazaki Prefecture (宮崎県) is dotted with natural scenic spots. In the 80km between Miyazaki and Cape Toi (都井岬) there are dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, monkey islands, rolling hills and even wild horses (but are they really?). Not very natural, but rather enigmatic is the Nichinan Sun Messe Park (日南サンメッセ), a place of commercial worship of … the Moai statues of Easter Island. Another human made point of interest is the Udo Shrine (鵜戸神宮), built inside a cave while overlooking the ocean.
Where?
While JR Nichinan Line (JR日南線) runs approximately half the time along the Miyazaki coastline, strangely enough the points of interest are not served. Getting to Nichinan Sun Messe, Udo Shrine and Cape Toi is possible by taking buses, but certainly not in one day. Therefore, by far the best option is to take a rental car somewhere along the way. I took one from Miyazaki, the city with the same name of the prefecture.
URL
Zooming Japan Japan Guide (Udo Shrine) Japan Travel (Cape Toi)

I am writing this report with the pamphlet of Nichinan Sun Messe in hand. The front literally states “Appreciation of the Ocean, Sky, Sun and the Earth”. It’s of course just a fancy line, but it was kind of ironic.
I usually am pretty lucky with the weather. My recent trip during the rainy season to Hachijojima and Aogashima comes to mind. This time though… not so much.
February is usually a cold but dry month, however this year it has been an exceptionally warm winter, and for my first of three days in Miyazaki, the weather was awfully British.
From the moment that I got in my car to the moment I got out of it 6 hours later, all I had was rain, wind and grey skies.

My first stop was the Nichinan Sun Messe Park. It’s a park with copies of the Moai Statues of Easter Island and on the side a bit of butterfly stuff. The concept really eludes me, and I suppose it’s the brainchild of a rich messiah who fell in love with Easter Island and its bobblehead statues. It kind of reminded me of the Taiyo Park in Himeji, but on a much smaller scale.
Usually, visitors are expected to climb a bunch of stairs to the top of the park from where they can admire the sun through an intricate display of geometry, the sea and the replicas of the statues. Because of the absolutely drab weather, the people from the park drove mini-buses to the top and back, because according to the workers themselves, “there is nothing to see”.
I took the bus to the top but then got out to walk back down.
The statement that there was nothing to see was a bit much. Yes, obviously this park would thrive a whole lot better with beautiful blue skies, but the cloudy backdrop wasn’t that bad at all. Walking on the grassy hills seemed a bit slippery dangerous, but the pathways were perfectly walkable and the views still more than ok. The statues were fun to look at, but they of course miss any authenticity.

A few minutes by car further there is the Udo Shrine. This place was highly recommended to me by my parents-in-law, and I can see why. The shrine is built along a beautiful stretch of coastline and culminates with what I suppose is the main building built in a big cave.
Again though, with the strong winds that smashes the rain into your face, it was hardly a fine day to enjoy the scenery.
I watched a young boy throw a “lucky ball” inside some kind of sacred rope to the applause of many, and went on my way.

Boarding the ferry in Kobe.

Sun Messe Nichinan as seen from the top.

Don't be fooled, even with this weather there were quite some people roaming around the statues.

Circling the statues underneath my umbrella.

The weather forecast had predicted a grey but dry afternoon, so I was hoping I could do some short hike at Cape Toi – famous for its wild (but extremely docile) horses grazing on sloping hills.
Alas, the situation only got worse. Light drizzle turned into full blown rain, and there really was no way I could enjoy the scenery. I think it has much to please me. I’m not talking about the 400 yen entrance to the whole area, and also not about the many abandoned hotels and restaurants that dot the cape. But When I climbed the Komatsugaoka Hill (小松ヶ丘 - a 5 minute stroll), it was clear that in another season this would be a mesmerizing sight. Horses grazing on green hills of which the long grass would sway in the wind. The blue skies above effortlessly intertwining with the emerald ocean below.
Today the grass was brown-yellow and muddy, the wind blinded me with rain and the grey skies darkened the wild sea below. As a last stop I wanted to visit the lighthouse, but I was asked to pay an additional 300 yen, and even though it’s only 300 yen, I had enough of grey and misty views.

I returned back to Miyazaki where the rain finally stopped the second after I parked my car. Despite today being a day that was destined to spend underneath a blanket watching a good movie, I could see how the coastline of Miyazaki could be of enchanting beauty.
The locals certainly didn’t seem to mind the wind or rain, as many surfers still tackled the waves.
I hope to come back some time in better weather.