Aoshima and Aya

Aoshima


What?

Aoshima (青島) is a tiny island off the coast of Miyazaki city (宮崎市), but it is connected to land by bridge. There is a pretty shrine on the island, but the main attraction here is the natural phenomenon surrounding the island. As the soil consists of two different types of rock here, erosion has led to a visual spectacle that looks like an old-fashioned washboard, and it is therefore called the “devil’s washboard”. The phenomenon also is visible in other spots along the Nichinan (日南) coastline, but the combination with an island connected to land makes that it is most impressive around Aoshima.

A little more inland, Aya Castle (綾城) might be only a replica, but it is faithful to old buildings methods and materials, making it as good as an original one. While small, it is visually pleasing and perfectly fits the natural surroundings. On the castle grounds, various tools related to craft making are exhibited, as well is it possible to try out various crafts yourself, like weaving or pottery making.

Where?

Aoshima is located near the city center of Miyazaki Prefecture (宮崎県) and is easily accessible by train (JR Nichinan Line - JR日南線) or bus, although running a bit infrequently.
Aya castle is a 60 minute bus ride away from Miyazaki, but even then you need to walk for around 20 minutes. I used a rental car, which is probably the best solution if you are visiting the whole area.


URL

Japan Guide (Aoshima)
MyTravelBuzzg
Visit Miyazaki (Aya Castle)
Tokyo Bling

While many attractions in Miyazaki prefecture were/are on my to-do list, the actual reason for my impromptu visit was the opening game of the football (soccer) season. My not-too-strong-but-still-favorite team played the local Miyazaki team on a Sunday afternoon. The clouds had dropped all the rain before the game, so while I could enjoy some third-tier football without getting drenched, my planning for the morning stayed limited to a visit to nearby Aya Castle, also known as the International Craft Castle.

The castle is a little bit atypical. It’s a replica, but completely made from wood and without elevators and the likes. In other words , it’s an as authentic you can get replica.
While lacking the usual tiers and grandness of most castles, I do find Aya castle’s unique shape and looks very appealing. The approach (before the gates) over a pedestrian suspension bridge only adds to its charm. The mountains beyond were discernible between a slowly receding carpet of clouds, which was a beautiful sight to behold.
Within the castle walls, there are a few older buildings that lend the castle its “craft” moniker.
One pretty much neglected barrack showed tools from olden days, like looms and agricultural utensils.
It was another one that was more interesting, as you could experience for free several crafts, like weaving or pottery making. I was also positively surprised that the volunteers working here were mainly young enthusiasts.

After my visit to the castle, I headed for the football stadium, stopping here and there to take pictures of manhole covers.


The next day I would be heading home, but as it would my only (half) day with good weather I decided to have an early start.
The Aoshima Island is Miyazaki city’s biggest claim to fame, so it can get very crowded. I first circled the island at around 6:30 though, when only a handful of people were there to enjoy the sunrise. It is an ungodly hour, certainly, but the value lies in enjoying the spot before busses start to unload a mass of other tourists.
I circled the island, visited the shrine and enjoyed an early morning orange juice. At this time of day with the high tide, the island hadn’t yet revealed the reason of its popularity, so I got in my car again, had a short nap and drove a while along the coastline to the Fudo beach (it’s just a beach) and the Horikiri Pass (堀切峠). It was now almost noon, and the many devil’s washboards along the Nichinan coastline started showing their faces. I had already clearly seen them during my drive towards Cape Toi, but in clear weather with beautiful blue skies, it’s another sight to behold.

I had myself a hyuganatsu icecream and took in the scenery before my eyes.
After this I headed back to Aoshima where the island had had a complete makeover. Yes, there were the many tourists, but most importantly, the island was surrounded by the devil’s washboards which weren’t visible during the morning high-tide. It’s really impressive and I can only advise people passing in the area to relax and halt for a few hours. Even though winter, the sun stood high and many people enjoyed a walk, a drink or a bite on the nearby beach. Also the next door botanical garden is a nice place for a stroll.
In another season, there will be a whole lot more people, but Aoshima might be one of those places that benefit from a little bustle.



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Yoris

Just dwelling away.

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