Chiburijima – Smallest of the Dozen Islands

What?
Chiburijima (知夫里島) is the smallest inhabited island of the Oki Islands. Housing only around 800 people, it is famous for its impressive Sekiheki Red Cliff (赤壁) – a unique volcanic appearance – and the panoramic view you have from the top of Mount Akahage (赤ハゲ山), rising 325 meters above sea level.
Where?
Chiburijima is one of the Oki Islands (沖ノ島) located in Shimane Prefecture (島根県). It can only be reached by ferry from either Shichirui (七類) or Sakaiminato (境港) in Tottori Prefecture (鳥取県).
URL
Oki Islands Tourism Association

Today it was going to be clear day.
According to the weather report.

After only two days I learned that weather reports don’t mean anything on the Oki Islands. Until today, I took benefit from this. A typhoon was supposed to ruin my visit, but apart from some strong winds on the Kuniga Coast the weather conditions were pretty fine and I did everything I wanted to.

But today was different. It was very clear from the beginning that the whole day would be at least cloudy, with probably some occasional showers. I ignored this, took along my rain jacket and hopped on the ferry from Nishinoshima to Chiburijima. That ferry wasn't operating the day before so I felt my luck was still running strong. Ideally I would ride a bicycle to the main tourist points, but there are no rental cycles available on this island. So I’d be walking. No biggie.

Passing a quaint fishing town.

The sea was quite rough today.

Despite the clouds the views were still very nice.

The top of Mount Akahage is visible in the distance.

I usually love to hike, but truth to be told, I’m not sure whether a walk on Chiburijima can be called a hike. Why? Because the whole route from the port over the top of Mount Akahage to the Sekiheki Red Cliffs and back to the port is conducted on paved roads. That doesn’t mean that traffic will bother you – there are barely any cars running – but it takes away some of the magic. Because let it be clear, both Mount Akahage and the Sekiheki Red Cliff have something magical. The small mountain is a pasture and a karst with cows grazing freely and it has a fantastic view on the underwater Dozen caldera even in cloudy weather. What a sight this would be a clear day!! Seeing every island surrounding an inland sea that clearly has volcanic origins. A view worth the quite monotone 2 hour walk from the port. The walk continuing to the sekiheki red cliff gets a little bit more interesting because of the many cows and pretty surroundings, but although not a single car or other human being crossed my way, the fact that the road was a paved one from beginning to end was a bit of a letdown. But let that not be a major letdown: the Sekiheki Red Cliff is one of the most impressive geological feats that I have ever seen. A cow shat upon the whole bench, the winds were so strong I had to take of my glasses and couldn’t go anywhere near the ridge, an occasional shower spoiled every hope of getting home with dry socks… but damn, this red cliff is impressive. I’ve never been a fan of geology, but this cliff makes you want to know about the color and the characteristic volcanic stripes.

Despite the weather I found a visit to Chiburijima very worthwhile, but taking a rental car would be a clearly better choice. You would even be able to circle the whole of the island and see every little interesting bit. Going on foot won’t serve you any bonus points because eventually you are just following the paved roads.