Osaka Getaway: Kisen Alps - Unzanpo

What?
The Kisen Alps (紀泉アルプス) is a range of low altitude mountains separating Osaka and Wakayama Prefectures. There is a plethora of hiking trails that give you the chance to tackle this area multiple times without doubling your tracks. Today’s hike took me from Yamanakadani Station through an unspoiled forest with occasional views over Osaka Bay and Wakayama City, over the top of Unzanpo (雲山峰489 meters) to Kii Station.
Where?
The trail starts at the small Yamanakadani Station (山中渓駅) and ends at the next-door Kii Station (紀伊駅), both on the Hanwa Line (阪和線). These are incredibly easy to access with direct links to Osaka and Tennoji Stations. A little more than an hour on any Kansai Airport/Wakayama bound rapid train will take you there. Make sure you board one of the last 4 cars though, as the train gets uncoupled at Hineno Station. For a description of the hike I refer you to Hiking in Japan which has a detailed description, or you can use the map below.
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Hiking in Japan

2024 for me was a year with an incredible number of social obligations, giving me the impression that even on weekends and holidays I rarely had a day off. And those days off, I tended to stuff with travels or meeting up with friends. Very nice and fun, but tiring nonetheless. My good intention for the new year was to simply save some time for a regular lazy afternoon.
Point in case, during this unusual long winter break that saw most people – including me – having a string of 8 to 9 days off, I had planned as good as nothing. Sitting in the couch, reading a book, playing a game; absolutely lovely. And so it was already very soon that I found the energy to do an impromptu hike. Nothing too fancy; one of those hikes a kept in reserve just for a day like today.

The incredible easy access is key here. Living in Osaka, I woke up, bought some breakfast at the local convenience store, boarded the train and an hour and a half later I was already up in the mountains.
I expected a pretty lonely hike, but I immediately met 3 other hikers in the first 15 minutes. It wasn’t a sign of what was to come though – only towards the end of the hike I would see another human being again.

Funky entrance gate.

These leaves made for a slippery slope at times.

Evergreens.

Many ups and downs, but in general the trail is easy like this.

The Kisen Alps might become a regular getaway for me. It’s not that I consider today’s hike a must do – I will not oversell. But the unspoiled forest was pretty, even in winter, the panoramas of Osaka Bay and Wakayama were nice, and again – the area is so easy to access.
In the middle of the hike there are three areas with benches for a short break. While a weak but frisky wind reminded me of the season, when it wasn’t blowing the sun gave enough warmth to just relax on of the many sturdy benches and enjoy the surroundings.

Apart from the first 20 minutes or so when the trail leads you to a mountain ridge, the hike is also quite easy, with many ups and downs but no real tough parts – perfect to stretch your legs on an impromptu hike.

Not all is great though. The track is prone to seasonal pitfalls: A short part during the latter half of the trail can become a muddy slug after a little bit of rain (incredibly soft ground), while autumn and winter can transform the trail in a river of leaves making footing unsure even during dry streaks like this week.
And then of course: during the first 40 minutes or so you will be bothered by constant traffic noise of both the highway nearby as the distant rumbling of planes using Kansai Airport as their base.

That being said, there is so much more to explore in these low mountains, and again – they are so easy to access, that I will surely be back.