Candlelight in Okinoshima

What?
Nomenclature for the Okinoshima Islands (隠岐の島) is difficult. This group of islands off the coast of Shimane Prefecture (島根県) consists out of 4 different islands. The smaller three (Nishinoshima (西ノ島), Nakanoshima (中ノ島) and Chiburijima (知夫里島)) are called the Dozen Islands (島前), the biggest of the 4 is called Okinoshima (隠岐の島) as well as Dogo Island (島後) . On such small and remote islands, the best thing to do is to adjust to the island pace of life, but of course there are some other attractions as well. Many of these are beautiful natural points of scenery, like the Nagu-saki Cape (那久岬) or the Candle Island (ローソク島).
Where?
Okinoshima can be reached from Sakaiminato (境港) in Tottori Prefecture (鳥取県) by ferry, but is part of neighboring Shimane Prefecture. Alternitavely and more easily, Okinoshima can also be reached by plane from the ironically named Osaka International Airport (大阪国際空港), the domestic airport known as Itami Airport (伊丹空港 - which is located not in Osaka but (Hyogo).< br> It is possible to get around on Okinoshima by bus, and even though the buses ride out fairly often for a such a small island, good planning is essential. Some people I met here rented a cycle. Distance-wise it is certainly doable, but the island is shaped from volcanic activity, so that means many ups and down which even with an electrical bicycle are a challenge. I chose for the option that gave me the most freedom, meaning that I rented a car.
URL
Visit Oki Islands

A few years ago I visited the Dozen Islands, and specifically Nishinoshima has become one of the best travel experiences I have ever had. I swore I’d come back again – and I will – but before that, I really wanted to check out if Dogo Island – making up Okinoshima along with the 3 Dozen Islands – had the same extraordinary vibe.

Of course, every trip is different, if not for the place, then for the weather or the time of year or the state of mind. In that sense I might have felt Okinoshima (in this case used as a synonym of Dogo) might have been a little too big. The feeling I could go anywhere on foot and that anyone would recognize me was pretty much absent.
That feeling quicky changed when I got in my rental car and reached my first stop of the day faster than I expected.

The Funagoya Boat Houses are listed as a touristic spot, but they really aren’t. They are exactly what they pretend to be: little garages for little boats. Nothing really special to see here. They are also not in use anymore and in a pitiful state. But stopping and walking around a bit did help me to adjust a bit to the slow rhythm of the island.

My next stop was Nagu-saki Cape. On a clear day you could see the 3 smaller islands of Okinoshima, and by god it was a clear day. I barely saw anything in front of my eyes without sunglasses. But it did mean I had a very clear view of beautiful Nishinoshima and Nakanoshima (Chiburijima was hidden behind those two islands), and even Honshu was visible in the distance. You can go up a view point by car. Some people did this, but no one went down and up to the lighthouse. I don’t know why though; it’s a breeze of a walk of back and forth maybe 20 minutes in total. And the reward is a better view than up from the viewing point. Cliffs and rocks protruding from the sea point in the direction of the Dozen Islands as if they wanted to reunite the 4 islands. I had a great time here and would have taken a break on a bench, if it were not for 1/ bulls that had an equal aim as the cows in Chiburijima and 2/ my reservation for the next appointment.

Nagu-saki Cape is for the most part pasture.

Beautiful coastal scenery, typical for the Oki islands.

Compare to my visit in Chiburijima.

Okinoshima reaching out for neigboring Nishinoshima.

One of the main sightseeing points of Okinoshima is the Candle Island or Rosokujima. This island is nothing more than peculiar shaped rock breaking the sea landscape, but in combination with the setting sun it looks eerily like a lit candle.
I didn’t have too many expectations, fearing it would be a tourist trap. The first signs were inconclusive though: only 9 participants on a very small boat spoke in favor of no tourist trap; the sluggish and amorph, yet way too cool captain was a sign of the contrary.

It wasn’t. The captain clearly was not in the mood to talk up the natural scenery unrolling before our eyes, and that was good thing. Letting the dramatic scenery of cliffs, caves and natural formed arches speak for themselves was the only correct option.
When I first saw the candle rock in the distance, I thought it was very small. That was only compared to the coastal cliffs though, because eventually it rises up 20 meters from the sea. When the captain positioned the small vessel into place, I was very impressed by the scenery: it really is a lit candle! We stayed in place for about 10 minutes, just taking the scene in and taking many pictures. When the captain asked us if we were good to go, I assumed he would just sail back, but he took a short detour behind some awe-inspiring rocks that wouldn’t have been misplaced at the Faroe Islands. Unfortunately, for taking pictures the seat on the boat is important, and while I was well placed for taking in the candle rock, that was less the case for the other interestingly shaped rock islands. Nonetheless it was more than I hoped for.
Let’s see if the next days will have equal impressive sceneries.