A Lazy Half Day in Kofu

What?
Kofu (甲府) is the capital of Yamanashi Prefecture (山梨県) and is surrounded by mountains on all sides, most famously by Mount Fuji (富士山) to the south. As such, it serves as a hub for several hikes, but the city itself also offers a modest array of sights and attractions. Right next to the station lies the spacious Maizuru Castle Park (舞鶴城公園). Kofu Castle (甲府城跡) once stood here, and while only the walls and some reconstructed gates remain, the layout and sheer scale of the grounds still spark the imagination. As Japan’s premier center for gemstones and jewelry production, the city is also home to the Yamanashi Jewelry Museum (山梨ジュエリーミュージアム), located not far from the castle park. If that’s not enough, Yamanashi is also known as Japan’s most productive wine region, with several wineries offering tours and tastings.
Where?
Kofu can be reached from Tokyo (東京) by limited express trains on the JR Chuo Line (中央線). Alternatively, highway buses connect it to major cities such as Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka. Maizuru Castle Park and the Yamanashi Jewelry Museum are both within walking distance of Kofu Station, while the Sakaori Winery (シャトー酒折ワイナリー) and the Akariya Thermal Spa (源泉湯燈屋) can be reached on foot in about 10 and 30 minutes respectively from Sakaori Station (酒折駅), one stop away from Kofu Station on the JR Chuo Main Line (中央本線).
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Japan Guide Visit Kofu

I like hiking. I like packing my vacations full so I don’t feel like I’ve wasted any free time. But of course, that gets tiring. And mentally, I know that relaxing is not the same as wasting time.
So today, I decided to take it slow. No busy schedule. Just head out – or not – and try to relax.

I took a short train ride from Kofu Station to Sakaori Station and headed toward the Sakaori Winery, about a 10-minute walk from the station.
I love beer, I love sake. But wine (and distilled beverages) has never fully convinced me. Still, the region takes pride in its wine, so why not take a look? The winery offers a free self-guided tour with a small tasting; there’s really no reason to skip it.
I took my time exploring the three floors of the winery. I was impressed by the pamphlet and its English version. Working with beer and sake myself, it’s always interesting to see which steps in the production process are similar and which are different. I was already happy with the tour, but the best part was saved for last. You can enjoy your tasting set or any other wine on the terrace, a relaxing space with a stunning view over Kofu and the surrounding mountains. On a beautiful spring day like today, it was exactly what I needed to unwind. Despite not being much of a wine drinker, I ordered a white wine tasting set and simply enjoyed the scenery.
I took out my e-reader, read a page or two, took a sip of wine, gazed into the distance for a minute… and repeated. And repeated. And so on.

By the time I left the winery, I was already thoroughly relaxed. Still, I knew there was a large onsen (or maybe a sento, I’m not entirely sure) about a 30-minute walk away, so I decided to head there for a soak and, most importantly, a massage. The place was rather pricey, but it offered three different outdoor baths, individual tubs, a few indoor baths, a sauna, and what I can only describe as a “waterfall bench with a footbath.” I came out even more relaxed than I went in.

I walked back to the station, and just meandering through the residential area, past the many sports facilities of the local university and the small grape vineyards… I absolutely loved it.

Is 10 o'clock too early for a wine?

Ok, tour first, drink later.

Time for tasting!

Tasting, with a view.

Back in Kofu, I extended my stroll through the large Kofu Castle grounds. The walls, one tower, and a few gates still stand – or rather, have been restored – but otherwise the area has been turned into an absolutely lovely park, free for anyone to explore. I bought a sandwich and ate it on one of the many benches, though bringing a picnic sheet and settling on the grass is just as appealing, as many junior high school students were doing. With some of the early sakura varieties starting to bloom and a bright blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds, it was yet another perfect moment to unwind.

Feeling good, I decided to check out the nearby Yamanashi Jewelry Museum, equally free and open to everyone.
The museum has three rooms showcasing jewelry, tools, and raw materials. I found it mildly interesting, but then again, I don’t have much of a feel for jewelry. I did enjoy the videos at the end of the exhibition, especially those showing the production process. Watching artisans at work always fills me with awe and respect. Unfortunately though, despite the decent English signage throughout the museum, the videos are only in Japanese.
On weekends and holidays, you can watch actual craftsmen at work, but since today was a regular weekday, the workshop was empty. There’s also the option to try making your own jewelry, though that didn’t really appeal to me. It seemed to require a reservation anyway. All in all, I found the museum quite nice. If you’re interested in the subject, you’ll probably enjoy it even more.

It was a pleasant way to end a – not even full – day of slowing down in Kofu.
The weather certainly helped, but I really like this city. It has a bit of a Matsumoto vibe to it. And that’s still my favorite place in Japan, so that’s a big compliment.

And to finish off my lazy day: a nap at the hotel!