Cycling Southern Hachijojima

What?
Hachijojima (八丈島) is one of the volcanic Izu Islands (伊豆諸島) located south of Tokyo (東京). The island is shaped like a bra well filled, with the beautiful conical Mount Hachijo-fuji (八丈富士) to the northwest and the bulkier Mount Mihara (三原山) to the southeast, and the small narrow slap of land in between dominated by the airport. Currently some 7000 people inhabit Hachijojima, having dwindled down from approximately 12000 in the late 60’s. The southeast part of Hachijojima is dominated by Mount Mihara on which the Japanese Imperial Army dug some hideouts and bunkers near the end of World War II. More peacefully, the mountain is also home to the Karataki Waterfall (唐滝) and the blue Io-numa Pond (硫黄沼). Most of all though, the southeast is known for its dramatic coastline and multiple onsen, among which Miharashi-no-Yu (みはらしの湯) is the most famous one.
Where?
Despite its remote location, Hachijojima is part of bustling, urban Tokyo Prefecture (東京都). The island can only be reached either by ferry, or airplane from Haneda airport. There are several companies offering rental cars and cycles, but especially in the weekends and the high seasons these are swiftly all booked, so thinking ahead is essential.
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Tokyo Islands Go Tokyo Pictures of the army hideout

So I have been in Hachijojima for a few days, but I only visited the central and north part of the island. Today I would do something about that, and just like yesterday afternoon I would mount a steel stallion with a battery.

As I have a preference for hiking and walking, going up Mount Mihara would be the logical choice. I couldn’t find any evidence though that the top would give me a worthwhile view, and anyway, it would be again more of the same. So I took my bicycle and went up the mountain anyway because I didn’t want to take the tunnel along the coastline. Of course, that would mean more meters up, but so be it. I wouldn’t be going to the top anyway, just high enough to bypass the tunnel. I reached my intended crossroad sooner than expected and was about to take a right turn to continue towards the Karataki Waterfall when I saw a somewhat faded sign that said “army box”. Now I know there are a few remains of the war on this island as I already passed a bunker near the island’s visitor center, but out here in the mountains with a sign? I wasn’t on a time schedule, so left I turned!
Truth to be told, there was a sign on the road stating that you couldn’t go this way because of “danger” and “working”. Those of you who know a bit about the country know that these signs are used all over the place, so I kind of ignored it without a second thought.
I descended a short while without seeing anything, but then a quite overgrown path with an even more overgrown marker led into the woods. I was alone with no cellphone reach in a place where most likely no one would come for a long while. Things already started feeling eerie, and the path that grew smaller and smaller only strengthened that feeling.
I started to wonder if there would be anything left of the bunker when out of the corner of my eye I saw a suspicious hole on my left. It is only then that I noticed a small marker, but it didn’t point to the hole or any bunker, only towards the main road. I closed in on the hole and no shit, started to get scared. It took me a few seconds to summon the courage to enter the hole, and dark corridors greeted me. I didn’t have my hiking headlight with me, only my cellphone and its rather weak lamp. I couldn’t see more than 2 meters before me what made the whole experience surreal. There were more tunnels than I thought, going farther and farther. I didn’t dare to venture too far though. What if a tunnel suddenly collapsed? What if got so far that I couldn’t find my way back? I kept on going back and forth to always remember the entrance, but when I found a tunnel with stairs that went down I chickened out and left the tunnel structure.
Outside I followed the path that wasn’t a path anymore and found another, bigger entrance. I briefly entered to find it split immediately and gave in there and then. Again outside I walked, a little bit further, and noticed a bunker-like building, completely overgrown apart from windows and door. I tried to go in, but was greeted by sand and mud blocking the way. I suppose the roof of the bunker must have given away under the weight of the mountain.
I felt thrilled of having come here, but I also thought it was a terribly creepy place. I could vividly imagine Japanese soldiers being cooped up here, living in these dark, damp holes only to come out for guerilla raids. I could imagine the US soldiers being fed up by the ongoing resistance and therefor searching the dense forest, knowing that any minute they could be shot at and attacked. Everyone’s nerves about to snap…
Although I regretted not having the courage to venture further into the tunnels, I was happy to be back on the road, ready to cycle down towards the coastline for a soothing walk towards a waterfall... Afterwards I found the place on google labeled as the Mount Teppeki Dugout Headquarters and if you click on the link above you realize how big this hideout is by just looking at the pictures.

The bunker, barely visible.

A more peaceful scene further below.

Always returning to the exit so not to get lost.

Not sure what this place was, but it had a serene atmosphere.

The next stop was the Karataki Waterfall. I parked my bicycle – which didn’t have a lock by the way, as the rental place said that “no-one here would steal that” – at the furthest parking lot and continued on foot. At first the path was paved and I kind of thought it might be a bit like the Mino Waterfalls: a paved road all the way to the end. Easy to access, yes, but also a bit disastrous for the feeling of nature. I was wrong though. At some point in the past, someone must have at least filled some parts of the path with concrete or asphalt, but not much remains. What you get is a fine forest walk, with a bit of river crossing and boulder hopping for the last 50 meters. The lack of rain of the past few days was very nice for my other ventures on the Izu Islands, but for a waterfall it means that the stream wasn’t very impressive. The falls are quite high and it is a nice spot though, and as I was alone I tried to get as close to the falls as I could. And sudden... I noticed a hole next to the falls! I closed in on it and while definitely no labyrinth of tunnels like earlier today, the hole was clearly manmade and I couldn’t see where it ended. Before, at the bunker I might have summoned the courage to explore a little bit, but this place was too public, the hole too small, and I kind of had enough of the creepy vibe that enthralled me so before. So I left it for what it was and returned to my bicycle, taking a look at the blue Ionuma Pond along the way.

Next on my list was the Uramigataki Waterfall. Literally that means “the waterfall with a backside”, and that is exactly what it is: you can pass behind it. Honestly speaking: the waterfall looks human-made, or at least it seems supported by humans to continuously cascade water down. Whether I’m right or wrong doesn’t really matter though. The waterfall is picturesque and more importantly: the setting is picturesque, with big ferns, a lovely footbridge over a trickling river and the moss covered back wall of the waterfall.
Near the falls is an onsen with the same name, and google mentioned it as “less busy than usual” which really made it difficult for me to resist. But I made the Miharashi-no-Yu onsen my goal of the day, so I held on for another while.

Never knew these were cultivated.

The bottom of the Karataki waterfall.

And the whole waterfall from a distance.

The Ionuma Pond.

There’s only one reason why I made this onsen my goal of the day: the outdoor bath has a great view over one of Hachijojima’s many capes, and although the use of this outdoor bath alternates daily between men and women, today it was the day for men.
I underestimated the way to get there though. Cycling halfway up Mt. Hacihijo-fuji, going halfway up Mt. Mihara: I could do that because I knew it was going to get tough. But I didn’t know the stretch between the Uramigataki Waterfall and the onsen would be an endless slope. I already started regretting not entering the Uramigataki Onsen when finally the road started descending. But after a minute or so in the descent the Nago Observation Deck was a very welcome resting point anyway. Not only was the timing right, most of all, it were the views that were absolutely amazing. Just like yesterday’s Hachijokojima Observation Deck, I could have stayed here for quite a while. But I was starting to get hungry and decided to push through in the hope there would be something to eat near the Miharashi-no-Yu onsen. Unfortunately there wasn’t anything, so I just entered the onsen and enjoyed the ridiculously fantastic view from the outdoor bath. This onsen is truly an absolute must-see, but check first whether your gender will be able to enter the outdoor bath before heading over there.

Leaving the onsen I obviously was still hungry, but I brought with me an apple and a snack for just an occasion like this. I wanted to quietly eat my (late) lunch at a nearby park when I noticed an arrow towards Cape Ishizumigahana. I decided to park my bicycle again and walk the short distance towards the shoreline. It was the right decision as the view was great, nobody was in sight and the stones were rather comfortable as a chair. I sat here for quite a while until I realized that I had to bring back my rented bicycle in time.
This time I just followed the coastline, and apart from the tough stretch to the Uramigataki Falls again though, it was all a breeze.
I enjoyed the view on the Osaka Tunnel Observation Deck that I skipped this morning, and I was amazed again by the beautiful unclouded view of Mount Hachijo-Fuji and Hachijokojima Island in the distance. So many splendid lookout points on this island, it's unbelievable.
At the very end I also visited the Hachijojima Visitor’s center, but I found too little info about the past of the island, and while they should have had glowing mushrooms on display, they weren’t glowing (it said so literally on the sign). So well, that was just in and out. But that definitely not made a stain on what was a pretty great day.

With again a sunny day, I have been very spoiled these passed few days. Even though it’s rainy season, I didn’t see a drop of rain.
A great closer of my trip to the far away Izu Islands.