Hachijojima - Cows & Turtles | Linger in the East

What?
Hachijojima (八丈島) is one of the volcanic Izu Islands (伊豆諸島) located south of Tokyo (東京). The island is shaped like a bra well filled, with the beautiful conical Mount Hachijo-fuji (八丈富士) to the northwest and the bulkier Mount Mihara (三原山) to the southeast, and the small narrow slap of land in between dominated by the airport. Currently some 7000 people inhabit Hachijojima, having dwindled down from approximately 12000 in the late 60’s. Halfway up Mount Hachijo-Fuji there is a cattle farm which grants great views all around. Apart from the majestic Mount Hachijo-fuji, the island is known for the sea turtles who live in the shallow waters and can be easily seen by diving near the ports.
Where?
Despite its remote location, Hachijojima is part of bustling, urban Tokyo Prefecture (東京都). The island can only be reached either by ferry, or airplane from Haneda airport. There are several companies offering rental cars and cycles, but especially in the weekends and the high seasons these are swiftly all booked, so thinking ahead is essential.
URL
Tokyo Islands Go Tokyo

If you have followed my blog for a while you will notice that I like hiking, and that a lot of my travels involve much walking. And that was exactly what I did on my first two days here on the far away islands of Hachijojima and Aogashima. And yes, there’s another mountain right outside my hotel window, but today I wanted to try something new.

I snorkeled a few times and one time I did something called “snuba”, but never have I really dived. I think it must have been a combination of not really going to diving spots and shame for the shape of my body. Well, whatever, I am here at a diving spot, I learned to live with my body, and there’s a thing called “diving experience course” for which you do not need a license. So I signed up, was the only one who did so and was spoiled by the instructor. After e brief explanation of how things work, we quickly went into the water. Getting the breathing under control was a matter of seconds and then down we went.
Of course, I was constantly guided by the instructor as I didn’t have clue of where to go or how to decently keep my balance. It was while trying to get a better view of where I was that suddenly a sea turtle swam right beside me. I almost dropped my mouthpiece in amazement (luckily I didn’t).
My instructor kept on following turtles and so it was the that we stayed under for nearly half an hour. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience so maybe I will try this a little bit more. If possible of course.

Watching sea turtles up close.

Perfect for a toboggan?

I wonder if that cow can enjoy the impressive views...

The views from the Fureai Ranch never bore.

In the afternoon I rented an electrical bicycle to explore a bit more of Hachijojima. Faster than on foot, more relaxed than by car.
Imagining I was Eddy Merckx I rushed up the flanks of Mount Hachijo-Fuji, with only my goal in mind: a farm on the slope of the mountain. Now I did go pretty fast, but even with my electrical bicycle I doubt Eddy Merckx - even in his current shape - would have difficulties leaving me behind.
Nonetheless, I did feel a little proud when I arrived at my destination, even though I was bathing in sweat and unnecessarily loudly catching my breath. Luckily I was all alone. I kind of hoped for an ice-cream as a reward, but the farm is unmanned. It is only “cowed”. (Hahaha)

I grew up with a farm with cattle next door, so the fascination of the Japanese with cows baffled me a bit in the beginning. I think I understand now though. Every time I have seen cows (or horses for that matter), it was always against a beautiful backdrop (like at Nishinoshima). It’s no different here with the Fureai Ranch. Located halfway up mount Hachijo-Fuji, there is a breathtaking panorama over the valley and Mount Mihara on one side, and of the top of Hachijo-Fuji on the other. The top was continuously in the clouds but that absolutely didn’t matter. Pure bliss.

I didn’t take too long though as strong winds made me want to seek out less exposed viewing spots. I dropped the Eddy Merckx act and slowly went down the mountain on the far side. Not many people come this way apparently because I only saw two cars pass by.
I stopped at every clearing and observation platform, but my favorite spot by far was the Hachijokojima Observation deck. The platform was sheltered from strong winds and had a very comfortable bench with a gorgeous view on the deserted Hachijokojima Island.
With no cellphone reach I spent the better part of an hour just gazing forward and leafing through some tourism pamphlets of Hachijojima. Pure bliss, again.
The arrival of a young couple by car was the sign for me to continue my way down.

Once arrived at the foot of the mountain I kept following the coastline and hopped on and off my bicycle to see the dramatic coastal scenery. Eventually I settled down again with a book at Nanbara Senjojiki where the view of Hachijokojima island was complemented with a coastline full of layers of volcanic rock. It reminded me a bit of Shirahama. While clearly different sorts of rock and stone, it was accessible for all and wide, very wide.
I spent here a good amount of time reading a book to witness the beautiful sunset. Again I was extremely lucky as there were no clouds to obscure the view. Tomorrow too, the weather is looking to be fine. The risk of going in the rainy season paid off.