Vast Karst Landscape on Mount Ryozen

What?
Mount Ryozen (霊仙山) is the northernmost peak of the Suzuka Mountain range (鈴鹿山脈). Officially it tops 1084 meters, but the highest point is registered as 1094 meters while the sign on the highest point says 1098 meters. Confusing. After a short stroll over a paved roll, the start of the hike begins through the ruins of an abandoned and overgrown village in a forest. After a steep ascent the incline grows gentler and upon leaving the forest there is vast field of karst formations from where you have fantastic vistas of Lake Biwa, the nearby Mount Ibuki and on a clear day the snow capped peak of Mount Ontake of the Northern Japan Alps. The descent leads again through a beautiful pristine forest with wildlife.
Where?
From Osaka Station (大阪駅) I transferred at Maibara Station (米原駅) in Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県) to get off the train at nearby Samegai Station (醒ヶ井駅). It’s possible to start walking from there, but the first few kilometers are just paved road, and it’s possible to take a special taxi that will only cost you 500 yen and brings you to the Samegai Trout Farm (醒ヶ井養鱒場). The taxi will only be cheap if you reserve beforehand though. From the trout farm the way to the top is very straightforward to the top. I decided to make the descending path to Kashiwabara Station (柏原駅) which again was clearly marked. Leaving the forest it’s a mere 20 minutes to the station. Both Samegai Station and Kashiwabara Station are also easily reached from Nagoya Station (名古屋駅).
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The Tozan Tales Mai-chan Reserved Taxi (JP)

What a blessing to get out again. What agony that it is not in the form of the holy Belgian trinity that tackled the likes of Yatsubuchi-no-Taki, Mount Yake and Mount Miune among others. But I don’t regret undertaking this hike alone. The weather was absolutely fabulous and on this regular weekday I encountered but 2 groups of 2 and an additional lone hiker during my 6 hour traverse. Pure bliss.

At first I thought COVID-19 had stolen most physical strength from me as the ascent after the village ruins left me puffing and wheezing. Without any companions to restrain me, it seems that I was just going way too fast. Luckily I didn’t blow up my motor and leaving the forest, the sweeping views of the vast area of karst formations gave me so much adrenaline that my tank soon was full again. What was absolutely great about this hike, was that not another soul was around. All I could see around me for miles were sloping peaks sprinkled with grey and white rocks and birds. Lots of birds. A true paradise for bird watchers.

Just after the village ruins are these abandoned cabins.

Not a soul in sight.

The Mount Ryozen Shrine near the top.

The top is rather a collection of sloping hills than a sharp peak.

From exiting the forest, the walk was still quite long, but easy and oh-so inspiring. Arriving at Mount Kyozuka (経塚山), the double peak of Mount Ryozen is in full sight. The blisters that had formed on my heel were just a small discomfort compared to the extremely rewarding panoramic views. I sat myself down and enjoyed some onigiris under a clear blue sky and comfortable warm sun. I could have easily taken a nap here but I wasn’t sure about the descent, so after a rest I packed up and pushed forward.
Tracking back to Mount Kyozuka, the pointing arrow led me past an emergency hut that showed most trails on this mountain are destroyed by typhoons and landslides. Very unfortunate, as somewhere in the dense forest lies a waterfall that must be quite impressive. I needed to go a little further to take a barely visible path into the forest down towards my end goal. Once in the forest though the path again became very clearly indicated.

The descent to Kashiwabara Station is gentler than the ascent, the forest more pristine. But if you walk in the other direction, upon arriving at the top you don’t have the sweeping karst scenery, instead you immediately arrive near the vicinity of the top. So starting at Samegai, being swept away about the vastness of the field, struggling to the top for a well-deserved break, and then bathing in the cool shadows of the virgin forest, it’s a well built up, continuous stream of highlights.