Blitz Visit to Matsuyama

What?
Matsuyama (松山) is quite a bustling town with a few touristic assets. Matsuyama Castle (松山城) is one of only 12 remaining original castles in Japan, but it sets itself apart by the totality of the preserved buildings. The second famous landmark is Japan’s oldest standing onsen building, the Dōgo Onsen Honkan (道後温泉本館), which allegedly served as inspiration for the setting of Studio Ghibli’s oscar winning Spirited Away.
Where?
Matsuyama is the prefectural capital of Ehime and therefore easily accessible by train, the Shiokaze Limited Express connects the city of Okayama (岡山) on main island Honshu with several bigger cities in Shikoku with Matsuyama as its terminal. Getting around town is very easy thanks to 5 tram lines connecting the JR station with Dogo Onsen and everything in between.
URL
Japan Guide Outline The Official Website of Tourism Matsuyama

For my second day on my driving trip through Shikoku I would go from Kochi to Saijo (西条) in Ehime Prefecture, stopping along the way for a short but hopefully powerful hike. I departed early in the morning and the driving was comfortable. What a difference with yesterday’s mountain road towards the Todoroki Falls! And it was at that moment that google maps made me turn right onto a road that by all means didn’t look like one. If yesterday’s road was difficult to navigate, this one was nearly impossible. And it would go on for 30 minutes. I was halfway and had already crossed three vehicles on a road just wide enough for a bicycle when a clearing appeared. Unconsciously I stopped the car and got out. I walked a little further to see what lied beyond, but the road only got worse. Call me a coward, but on this sunny Saturday a lot more traffic could be expected and I totally was not up to the ascent. I turned the car around and decided there and then that I wouldn’t do the hike.

I didn’t have a plan B, so I drove towards my end destination and reached it before noon. I couldn’t even check in yet, that’s how early I was. Saijo, the town I was staying also seemed half dead as I couldn’t even find a place to have lunch. I was really disappointed in both the failed hike and the town, and I absolutely had enough of driving, so in a whim I decided to take the train to the only place in Ehime that I know has some famous tourist attractions: Matsuyama.

I didn’t expect too much of the original castle in the city. After all, nearby Marugame Castle is also original but it was more cute than impressive. Also, I wasn’t in the mood to spend energy on walking around town or uphill towards the castle keep, so I did what I don’t do very often: I went completely “short-pants-&- sandals-camera-in-hand-tourist”.

I took the tram (which stops every five meters), I took the chair lift to climb the hill of the castle (it’s really not that high, my intended hike would obviously have been tougher), and I didn’t regret any of it. Sometimes it’s nice to join the (tourist) circus. But very importantly, the castle was a big surprise. It’s almost completely intact. That doesn’t mean just the main tower, but also a lot of buildings around it and the huge castle grounds. Inside many artifacts of the ruling class are exhibited, as well as architectural techniques which are really interesting. The vistas from the top of the castle were also above average with commanding views over the whole city and part of the sea. I must say that the whole castle really impressed me and ranks among those absolute gems like Matsumoto Castle, Kumamoto Castle and Hikone Castle (Himeji Castle is a different category).

After the castle I went to look for that other famous spot in the city: Dōgo Onsen. I wouldn’t take a bath, but I wanted to see the main building which is the oldest onsen of Japan. Unfortunately, the onsen was partly under reconstruction. Despite that, the sheer beauty of the building was apparent. I can only imagine it would be way more impressive at night. And then I suppose I would take the soak.

Despite the reconstruction and the corona situation though, a lot of people were flocking towards the attraction, so I am not sure entering would be so easy or relaxing.
I walked my way back to the castle and experienced Matsuyama as a quite young and modern city, rather lively and interesting. It was an improvised visit, but Matsuyama left a good impression and maybe I will be back.

Many buildings are still original.

The view from above.

One of the impressive gates.

Lazily getting off the hill by chair lift.

Later on I also gave Saijo a second chance. Right next to the station is the probably only touristic attraction the city has: the Shikoku Railway Cultural Center. Now I like trains. But not to the extent of collecting models or taking pictures of them. Nevertheless, as the museum only costs 300 yen you really can’t go wrong here. There are a total of 5 train carriages and locomotives exhibited, with the engine room of the steam locomotive pretty intact. There are also tracks, wheels, timetables, artefacts, … basically anything that has to do with trains exhibited. So if you’re a train fan, by all means hop on in. It’s cheap, the buildings are very well maintained and there’s a lot to see. Do note though that there isn’t a word of English present. Anyway, for me the highlight was the romantically picturesque diorama of Shikoku and their trains. It’s not worth a detour, but if you’re staying in town just take a look.