Kochi (and) Kayak

What?
The Niyodogawa River (仁淀川) is less famous than the next door Shimanto River (四万十川), but both have the same “sinking bridges” (沈下橋) while the water of Niyodogawa is more clear. Perfect for a descent of the river by kayak with River Cruise. Kochi (高知) is the prefectural capital and is most famous for its original castle and fresh seafood. Niko Deep (にこ淵) is a sacred waterfall dropping into an emerald blue pond. It is said the color of the pond changes around noon when sunlight directly hits the water. The nearby Nakatsu Gorge (中津渓谷) should be equally impressive with crystal clear waters and scenic waterfalls, but unfortunately I did not have the time to visit.
Where?
The kayak adventure begins in the town of Ino (いの町) near Kochi and is easily accessible by car. The reception is located inside a roadside station, so parking etc is also no problem. No notorious Shikoku mountain roads here, but you do need to have your own wheels. Kochi can be reached by the JR Nanpu (南風) limited express train from Okayama (岡山), but it will cost you a lot of time and money. The city is not too big but buses and tram lines can help if your feet are tired.
URL
Japan Guide Outline GaijinPot Travel Visit Kochi River Cruise (JP)

Just like yesterday with the canyoning I was alone for the descent of the Niyodogawa River in kayak. Being alone makes the guides more lenient in their schedules and they’re more willing to provide some special services. I already experienced that last year on Nishinoshima and it wasn’t any different now.
The course that we took was the same as always, but as there wasn’t any time pressure the rowing took half an hour longer.

You can look for a few things in kayak. You can look for a relaxing time like last year’s sea kayak in Nishinoshima, or you can aim for a thrilling ride in rapids. Yesterday’s canyoning was great for relaxing, so I was hoping for an exciting ride.
Truth to be told, the three rapids in the river didn’t really do it for me. On the other hand, just dobbering around with the mountains in full sight, checking the cages whether crabs were caught and chatting away with the guide made up a lot. If the sun was shining it would have been more than pleasant. As it was, the weather was drab and grey, but that’s hardly anyone’s fault.

During the chatting, my guide urged me to eat katsuo tataki in nearby Kochi. As I hadn’t anything planned except for a late afternoon visit to the hospital for my broken finger, I took the little detour and visited the castle along the way.
Just as with Matsuyama Castle I was positively surprised. This original castle is both impressive and picturesque at the same time. Impressive because of the approach via old stone stairs and a maze of walls and gates, picturesque because it stands elegantly above the city despite being not too big.
What really sets this castle apart though is that it was also used as living quarters, so the first two floors are completely different than what other castles offer. Also, I have the impression that the castle hasn’t been renovated for a while which led to a truly authentic experience. The creaking floorboards (some were even loose) were memorable, but most of all it was the smell of the place that transported me back to samurai times. A castle very much worth visiting.

Passing a "sinking bridge".

A lot of people were fishing for Ayu (sweetfish).

In action in one of the three rapids.

Kochi Castle's keep.

Then it was time for the finger licking delicious katsuo tataki. I ate this in Hirome Ichiba (ひろめ市場), a bustling place full of small eateries and shops. Bustling even in corona times and on a weekday at 2pm. It was a pity I came by car because a beer here would have been the perfect match.

On my way back I stopped over by Niko deep. It’s one of the most famous spots Kochi Prefecture has to offer and as it was on my way I could see what it is all about.

Despite the drab weather the water was beautifully blue and I could see why it became so popular. On the other hand, it’s not very big and on a rainy afternoon on a weekday there were already 10 to 15 people present. I do not want to imagine what it would be on a sunny Sunday at noon when the light fall is supposedly best.

Whatever the case, if like me you are passing by anyway it’s worth the stop. The place is just like in the pictures!