What? |
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Like many of the lesser known “alps” in Japan, the Konan Alps (湖南アルプス) is a rolling area with many peaks that are better described as hills rather than mountains. It is located south of the Konze Alps and can be seen as part of the same park, with many granite rocks and sandstones sticking out of the vegetation. One of those peaks from the Konan Alps– well, actually 2 as it is double peak – is Doyama (堂山), standing at 384m. |
Where? |
Located in Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県), just south of Lake Biwa (琵琶湖), the Konan Alps are very easy to access. A direct train connects Osaka Station (大阪駅) and Ishiyama Station (石山駅) from where a bus (number 130 or 140) runs pretty much hourly towards the Alps Tozanguchi bus stop (アルプス登山口). Get off here and you are very much at the start of a few trails, among which that to Doyama.
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Yamatabi Tips (JP) |
Since long, a friend living in Okinawa has asked me to give him a call whenever I’d plan a hike. I never did though, because in my head, small hikes wouldn’t be worth it – it had to be tough and memorable hike.
But as things go, eventually he came over anyway and we both weren’t up to anything to heavy. Me because I still hadn’t completely recovered from 3 months of non-stop work, he because he had a drinking party planned the day before.
And as it turned out, it shouldn’t have been a grand hike anyway – Doyama was fun enough.
Getting off the bus, my first thought was: “oh shit, is the trail even open?”.
The reason? A massive highway construction right in front of our faces. And by massive I really mean Godzilla-like massive. Luckily hikers already finishing their loop just told us to just walk straight on – the yet to be finished highway did not interfere with any hiking paths. Starting to walk, my buddy immediately notices some kids taking a refreshing dive in the river. We would be following that river a very short while on an asphalted road, but needed to cross it at some unknown and unindicated point. For those who want to explore Doyama: cross the river at a big sign that prohibits barbecues (behind which ironically a family was having a barbecue) and then take a small path going left.
The starting point was the only unclear point of the hike. And when in doubt: try to spot the pink ribbons.
The trail immediately goes up through the forest, following a small stream cascading down from a rocky bedding. I didn’t succeed taking any decent picture, but I absolutely loved the atmosphere and the occasional views on the forest behind. A little bit higher up, a dam meant the start of a more traditional, gently sloping path through the forest. Before we knew it we were at the ridge with the top of Mount Doyama in front of us. Sweeping views of Lake Biwa, the forest, the many sandstones and the massive construction site didn’t bore a single moment. I must say; I have no idea what the use of that mastodont of a highway will be, and I am pretty convinced it is one of those friend-services between politicians and construction companies – but still the sight of the huge arches wrapped in scaffolding is quite impressive.
At the top we encountered a bunch of fellow hikers and struck up a conversation. Finishing our lunch we continued our path, dangling on ropes, clambering and scrambling between beautiful rock formations, only to discover that Mount Doyama has a second peak.
From here on, the way down is straightforward but equally as beautiful, with views on some Jurassic Park-like scenery on the right and Lake Biwa on the left.
After a short stretch through the forest, we arrived at a pretty dry riverbed. At first I thought we had missed a turn somewhere, but this riverbed is part of the trail. I do wonder how people pass after a few days of rain…
Anyway, we arrived soon again at the first river we crossed, heading back to the bus stop.
Initially the plan was to take a left somewhere and climb a second peak of the Konan Alps called Sasamagadake, but here is where my buddy’s hangover finally got the better of him. He preferred a dive in the river near the bus stop where we previously saw the kids play. And while he was relaxing in the water, I was being eaten alive by a swarm of mosquitos.
It didn’t ruin the day though: this very easy hike was prettier and more fun than I expected.
>>More pictures<< |
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