Nakayama Is Not Only a Temple

What?
Starting from Yamamoto Station (山本駅), today’s hike took us along the Saimyoji Waterfall (最明寺滝), over the Takarazuka Rock Garden (宝塚ロックガーデン), all the way to the top of Mount Nakayama (中山) at 478 meters. Making the circle complete, the hike ends at Nakayamadera (中山寺), a large temple/shrine popular with young parents who come with newborn children to pray for their health. Since 2016, a five-storied pagoda, painted a rare blue/purple color, adorns the site.
Where?
Located in Hyogo Prefecture (兵庫県), both Yamamoto Station as Nakayama-Kannon Station (中山観音駅) are served by the Hankyu Takarazuka Line (阪急宝塚線). It’s easily accessible from Osaka’s Hankyu Umeda Station (阪急梅田駅). Alternatively, Nakayamadera Station (中山寺駅) on the JR Takarazuka Line (JR宝塚線) is also just stone’s throw away and can be reach in a straight line from JR Osaka Station (JR大阪駅).
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My Loghouse on Mt. Ontake Beautiful Takarazuka

On more than one occasion have I gone walking or hiking with colleagues. I am happy that there are so many people getting along with each other so well that they don’t mind spending a (few) day(s) off together. Everyone’s level of fitness and experience varies greatly, but in general I have a pretty decent view of what to expect.
No so this time.

A new colleague of mine heard of my love for hiking and was badgering me to take him along. As one of his hobbies is running, I didn’t mind taking him somewhere challenging, but my other colleague – in fact the only one that has been at the job as long as I have – overheard our conversation and wanted to tag along too.
Now I absolutely don’t mind his company, but he is a heavy chain smoker with a love for sake and no real appetite. So what level could I expect?
In order not to get stranded somewhere on a secluded peak, I chose for a hike in our “backyard”, not too high, not too tough. Nakayama, here we come.

Right off the bat, the fitness level of my colleague was all in all better than I expected. While he did struggle with his breathing and had some sore muscles around halfway, he laid down a very fast pace. I suspect that if he’d take it more slowly, he wouldn’t have the breathing issue. So the more we progressed the less I was worrying about him and the more I could enjoy this day outside.

I didn’t really know what to expect from Nakayama itself. Until recently, I didn’t even know there was a mountain (well, hill) with that name around; I thought that the area was named after the way more famous Nakayama temple (Nakayamadera), the end point of today’s hike. It is a rather unlikely place for a hiking course, wedged between a densely populated area and a golf course. Nevertheless, the start of the hike begins almost immediately after getting of at Yamamoto Station. The first stop is the Saimyoji Waterfall. It is far from the impressive falls that I had visited the week before, but on the other hand it is also far more from what you’d expect so close to an urbanized area. For another few minutes the path just goes through a forest, and then suddenly an even more unexpected scenery came into view; a kind of rock garden – a steep, bald, rocky slope – was the only way up.
It was only a short distance and I had no difficulties whatsoever – and neither should anyone with sure footing and an ok condition – but logically it was a tough hurdle for my colleague. That being said, his slow pace (a fast pace interrupted by many breaks) was a great opportunity to fully take in the wide views of nearby Itami, Amagasaki and Osaka. It was fun checking off the familiar places, and at this point in time the sun shed a cozily warm light on us, making me very happy with the many breaks.

Newly knitted red hats.

A fellow hiker conquering the Takarazuka Rock Garden.

The location of Itami Airport in the middle of an urban area is flabbergasting.

Golf course on the right.

After climbing to the top of the rock garden, the hike turns in a very straightforward ridge hike. As it literally splits the urban area from the golf course, it’s impossible to get lost. At a certain point the trail was even fenced on both sides, making us feel like walking a small corridor for a few hundred meters.
After a few gentle ups and downs we got to the top from where we could enjoy again a few nice views, although not as impressive as those from then rock garden. After lunch we were chased away by the cold and even (immediately melting) snow.
We chose to follow to path to a minor shrine was rather unimpressive. The trail continued down with the sober Meoto-iwa Rock as an orientation point. This path goes all the way down until we reached our finish line of Nakayama-dera.

I was surprised by the size of the temple. I was surprised by the fact that half of the temple is actually a shrine. I was surprised about the many colorful details on the buildings, and I was surprised about the beautiful blue/purple pagoda. With many girls beautifully dressed up in kimono for girl’s day (hinamatsuri), and with some plums that were starting to bloom, I absolutely loved the cozy yet festive atmosphere that hang about this place. I have lived and worked so close by for so many years but never realized the beauty of this temple.

A beer at noon was a perfect closer for me and my colleagues of this very pleasant day.
All in all, the loop from Yamamoto Station to Nakayama-Kannon Station over the Nakayama peak isn’t very thrilling and becomes a little monotone towards the end, but I do think it is a nice getaway for people living nearby.

※I strongly recommend to follow the trail in the direction from Yamamoto Station to Nakayama-Kannon Station. The rock garden is definitely way easier to get up than to get down.