Omihachiman & Azuchi Castle Ruins

What?
Omihachiman (近江八幡) is a quiet anonymous little town along Lake Biwa (琵琶湖) in Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県). In the olden days however, the town was located both on the important inland route “Nakasendo” (中山道) and near the canal that connected Lake Biwa with the Sea of Japan, making it an important strategic point. Most famous is the well preserved merchant district with the canal (八幡堀) flowing through it. People can board small boats and enjoy the scenery which is especially pleasant when the many cherry trees are flowering. Near the canal is the Himure Hachimangu Shrine (日牟禮八幡宮社) and a cable car that can take you up Mount Hachiman where the Hachiman Castle used to stand. If you are looking for castle ruins though, the Azuchi Castle ruins (安土城跡) are only a stone’s throw away and have a much richer background. Built for and lived in by Oda Nobunaga, it was an absolutely fabulous palace, but it got burned down only three years after it was finished after a tragic betrayal. Nearby are the Azuchi Castle Archeological Museum (滋賀県立安土城考古博物館) and the House of Oda Nobunaga Museum (安土城天主信長の館). The first one holds a collection of archeological findings and building techniques while the second has a replica of the two top floors of the castle.
Where?
The merchants district and canal can be reached by getting off the train at Omihachiman Station (近江八幡駅). From there it’s a 20 to 30 minute walk, but as the walk is rather bland I recommend taking the bus. To visit the Azuchi Castle Ruins and the musea you need to get off at the next train stop, Azuchi Station (安土駅). Buses probably connect the station with the sites, but in contrast to the sights near Omihachiman Station, the walk here is picturesque and relaxing. Both stations are located on the Biwako Line (琵琶湖線) that connects Kyoto (京都) with Nagoya (名古屋).
URL
Japan Guide Outline (Omihachiman) Japan Visitor (Azuchi Castle) Go! Central Japan (Azuchi Castle)

The cherry trees are blossoming again, so there is again that challenge to enjoy the beauty of that while avoiding the crowds. Because whatever catastrophe or virus, the normally calm and composed Japanese citizen will turn into a crazed photographing specimen during this time of the year.

In that sense it wasn’t very wise of me to choose to enjoy a canal boat ride in Omihachiman. It did make sense though to do it on a Friday. And while there were a handful of dirty old photographers taking pictures of scantily clad young ladies (all for the cherry blossoms in the background, I am sure), the canal was rather calm despite the fantastic weather.
The scenery doesn’t stretch out for a long distance, but it was beautiful nonetheless. I got on a boat without motor, and while it was far from spectacular, the gentle bobbing of the small ship was very soothing and relaxing. The asthmatic coughing attack of our oarsman was less inviting, but that can happen to anyone of course.

Other attractions of Omihachiman include the well preserved old merchants quarter and a cable car ride up a hill with views of Lake Biwa.
I briefly strolled the old buildings area, but as my host family lives in such an old and impressive residence, these kind of areas don’t really trigger anything inside of me.
I skipped the cable car ride up the neighboring hill in favor of a stroll to the Azuchi Castle ruins.

The well preserved houses of the merchant district.

Cherry tree. Canal. Boat. That's Omihachiman.

Details at the Himure Hachimangu Shrine.

Bobbing away on the little boat.

The walk takes you from Azuchi Station through the local neighborhood with schools, shrines and fields. It’s strange how the old merchant area in Omi Hachiman left me without any emotion, while this everyday scenery moved me.
Eventually the walk led me to a boulevard flanked with cherry trees that passed the entrance to the castle ruins. The ruins itself were pretty impressive and I was surprised to find a pagoda still standing at the eastern limit of what I thought were the castle grounds. I found climbing the ruins worthwhile, but the lack of a real view over Lake Biwa was a bit disappointing. More than 15 years ago I visited this place once and I had a (probably faulty) memory of sweeping views over the local town and the lake.
Anyway, just like the Takatori ruins and the Takeda ruins this placed sparked my imagination.

Continuing, the walk takes you to the Archeological Museum and the House of Nobunaga. The first displays a whole lot of artifacts, but the latter is more interesting despite its small size. A real sized replica of the top two floors of the castle stands here, and it is not like any castle I have visited. The octagonal shape that represents the ideal land according to Buddhism topped off with the golden residence of Oda Nobunaga is absolutely impressive. It makes want to visit the ninja theme park in Iga Ueno where a complete replica stands (why there, I do not know). The educational VR movie - in spite of its hilarious jinglish - is also very well made and makes the ruins that I just visited come to live.

Walking back to the station I noticed there was another small museum right next to it, but I had only one minute left before my train departed so I skipped it. I do not mind because I had a relaxing boat ride and walk and was pretty satisfied of my day.