Walking Away from Kawaguchiko Tourist Trap – Part 2: The Caves and Mount Ashiwadayama

What?
The Narusawa Ice Cave (鳴沢氷穴) and the Fugaku Wind Cave (富岳風穴) are two of three volcanic caves near Lake Kawaguchiko (河口湖). They are located at the edge of the vast Aokigahara Forest (青木ヶ原) and are connected to the center of Fujikawaguchiko (富士河口湖) by a small mountain ridge. Highlights along the way include Koyodai (紅葉台) and Sankodai (三湖台), with Mount Ashiwada (足和田山) as the highest point at 1,355 m.
Where?
All Fuji Five Lakes (富士五湖) are located in Yamanashi Prefecture (山梨県). I took the Green Line sightseeing bus toward the Fugaku Wind Cave, from where I walked to the Narusawa Ice Cave and then all the way back to the Katsuyama bus stop in Fujikawaguchiko. Alternatively, if you are not interested in the caves, you can start the hike by taking the Blue Line and getting off at either Koyodai or Narusawa Ice Cave.
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Japan Guide Ridgeline Images

There are three caves near Lake Kawaguchiko, of which the Bat Cave was still closed. Of the other two, it is only the Fugaku Wind Cave – described by Japan Guide as the least exciting one – that is directly accessible by bus. According to every sign, the Narusawa Ice Cave is just a 10 to 15-minute walk away. So I bought a combination ticket and entered the cave. First good point: there were people, but just the right amount.
Second good point: thanks to Japan Guide I expected the worst, but it wasn’t bad at all.
Sure, I’ve seen far more interesting caves in Japan – Akiyoshi Cave, Ryuga Cave, Ryusendo Cave, to name a few – but I must have come in the right season, as some ice still fills much of the space.
I exited the cave and, to my delight, noticed a sign indicating that the Ice Cave was indeed a 15-minute walk along the concrete road, but also that there was a route through the Aokigahara Forest. It would, admittedly, take twice as long, but would let me enjoy some nature.
Because with all the tourist development, you tend to forget—but when you’re here, you’re in a beautiful natural part of Japan. Aokigahara Forest may have a somewhat dark reputation, but it is a gorgeous forest, overgrown with vibrant green moss even in this grey winter weather. It was a 30-minute walk that made me crave more. I seriously considered throwing away my combo ticket and turning toward Lake Shoji, but I had no idea how long it would take.

And so I arrived at the Ice Cave.
The Ice Cave is short. Seriously short. It’s in and out.
And still, I recommend it.
The way down almost feels like crawling through the space beneath your house. Other people in the cave—young, fit visitors—were exclaiming, “What on earth is this?!” That’s how low the ceiling is.
And when you finally can stand up, there is a sea of crystalline ice shining in all directions. It’s only a few meters, but I was mesmerized, I have to admit.
And then I left.

I loved the scenery between the two caves.

Moss on moss?

The ice cave needed some crawling.

Lots of ice in the ice cave.

…
I had pretty much done everything I wanted to do. Of course, I’m a sucker for a boat trip, but on a cloudy day like today, what’s the point of going out onto the lake on a tourist boat?
Then I took out my phone, checked my hiking app, and discovered a nice trail nearby leading back toward the Kawaguchiko Station area, ending at one of the sightseeing bus stops.
Perfect.

And so I took the path to what I had only learned moments before was the peak of Mount Ashiwada.
With these clouds, I didn’t hike for the views. It would take a miracle for Mount Fuji to appear. I just wanted to walk in the beautiful nature I had already experienced between the two caves. Not many others seemed to think the same, and I can understand that. Hiking isn’t for everyone, and with Mount Fuji hidden, why bother?
And truth be told, the short, flat trail through Aokigahara Forest was more mesmerizing. Still, I think this hike is worth it.

First of all, this is terrain suitable for anyone with basic fitness. There are no difficult sections and no steep climbs. At many points, two paths run parallel, and if you take the one closer to Mount Fuji, the difficulty level is practically zero. The lakeside path lies a bit higher and offers some nice views over Lake Saiko and Lake Kawaguchiko, though never completely unobstructed; in other seasons, foliage might block what little view there is.
But where the paths merge, there are cleared viewpoints to enjoy. Some are meant for admiring today’s very shy Mount Fuji, but most offer views of Japan’s highest peak and the surrounding lakes. I especially loved the view from Sankodai, with its sweeping perspective over Lake Saiko. The viewing platform on the peak of Ashiwadayama also provided some beautiful sights of Lake Kawaguchiko.

When I arrived at the roadside station marking the end of my impromptu hike, I was in a completely different mood from that morning.

I wonder if Mount Fuji will show itself in the coming days. With its majestic presence, the natural beauty around Kawaguchiko would shine even more.

Walking Away from Kawaguchiko Tourist Trap – Part 1: Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba
Walking Away from Kawaguchiko Tourist Trap – Part 2: The Caves and Mount Ashiwadayama