Mount Norikura: Crowds Can’t Spoil the Fun

What?
Mount Norikura, or Norikuradake (乗鞍岳), is a 3,026 m peak in the Northern Japan Alps. It is one of Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains and arguably the easiest to access. Although the last known eruption was around 2,000 years ago, it is still regarded as an active volcano, with its many crater lakes as a witness to that. The highest point, Kengamine (剣ヶ峰), offers sweeping vistas of the surrounding Alps and valleys.
Where?
The summit lies in Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県), but while it can be approached from Takayama (高山), most climbers begin their journey from Matsumoto (松本) in Nagano Prefecture (長野県). Trails to the top start from the Tatamidaira bus terminal (畳平) , which cannot be reached by private car, making it the highest bus stop in Japan. From Matsumoto, take the Kamikochi Line (上高地) train to its last stop, Shinshimashima (新島々駅). From there, board a bus toward Norikura Highland and transfer at the Norikura Tourist Center for a bus to Norikuradake. Be aware that seats on this final bus must be reserved in advance. (Buses from Takayama, on the other hand, cannot be reserved it seems.)
URL
Japan Guide Alpico

Climbing an easily accessible mountain from Japan’s top 100 on a sunny national holiday… Since we decided rather late to climb Norikuradake, we couldn’t book spots on the earliest bus departing from Tatamidaira. We wanted to book that bus for two reasons: to avoid traffic (as Norikura and the hugely popular Kamikochi share the same access road) and to avoid crowds on the mountain itself. In the end, the road was clear, but the mountain was teeming with activity. That’s no surprise; considering the bus stop sits at 2,700m, the climb to the 3,026 m summit takes only about an hour and a half. With such an easy ascent for a 3,000-meter peak, just about anyone can make it, as the many children and elderly hikers showed. The crowds, however, never felt overwhelming like for example on Mount Fuji. We were still able to climb at more or less our own pace, though a few sections required waiting for foot traffic from the other direction. The most crowded spot was near the summit though, where a 30-meter line had formed for a picture perfect.

Up until the top I had mixed feelings. As often in Japan, there were a bunch of ugly buildings. Why, for crying out loud, do you need a souvenir shack just 30 meters below the peak if you already have a shrine with a shop at the summit? The good news: an old observatory building was being dismantled. Not gone yet, but when it is, the mountain will be better for it.
Despite the crowds, I loved the views from near the summit: the crater lake and the cloud-filled Kamikochi Valley in the distance. Everybody on the mountain realized the beauty of what they were seeing, and then sharing the impressive scenery becomes all the easier.

Not much visibility at the start of the hike...

...but after only a few minutes in, we got views like this.

Don't let the easy approach fool you - it's still a volcany.

Many people lining up for a perfect picture.

After climbing Kengamine, the highest peak of Norikuradake, we backtracked and took a detour via Fujimidake (富士見岳), which lies along the way. From there, my friends returned to the bus stop, calling it a day, but I pressed on to Daikokudake (大黒岳). I’m not sure why they stayed behind as it was only a ten-minute climb, and the reward was just what I needed: sweeping views and far fewer people. Many hikers head straight for the highest peak and ignore those that lie beyond. My near solitude made me want to continue, but I needed to return to the bus stop as our return bus was already booked. I would have loved to climb more of the surrounding peaks, like nearby Maodake (魔王岳) or the more distant Ebisudake (恵比須岳), which must have been almost deserted even on this national holiday. Of course, I needed to board this bus as otherwise I wouldn’t be able to get back to Osaka…

In the end, that last peak tipped the balance for me: I definitely recommend this mountain. It’s beautiful, accessible, and rewarding. Still, I suggest visiting on a regular weekday. It will make all the difference.