Kitayamazaki Cliffs; Appetizer for the Michinoku Trail

What?
The Michinoku Coastal Trail (みちのく潮風トレイル) is a long path covering most of Tohoku’s eastern coastline, connecting several prefectures, most of which have been hit hard by the 2011 great east Japan earthquake and the resulting tsunami. The Kitayamazaki Cliffs are just one very small part of it, but is considered as one of the most impressive landscapes along the route. Of course there is a coastline walking route, but observation points can be reached by car and bus and there is also a cruise that lets you see the cliffs from the sea. The Ryusendo Cave is one of Japan’s three great limestone caves, but it’s most impressive feature are its crystal clear underground lakes.
Where?
The Kitayamazaki Cliffs are located along Iwate Prefecture’s coastline. The boarding point of the cruise is located nearby the Shimanokoshi Station (島越駅) on the Rias Line (リアス線) of Sanriku Railways (三陸鉄道). The observation platforms can be reached with a 10 minute taxi ride from Tanohata Station (田野畑駅) on the same line. As for the Ryusendo Cave, it can be reached by a direct bus departing from Morioka Station (盛岡駅). Needless to say though that if possible, it’s easier to reach all by (rental) car.
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Michinoku Coastal Trail Visit Tohoku, Find Japan Ryusendo Cave

Today I planned to drive a bit through Iwate Prefecture. For a long time, I have wanted to walk (parts) of the Michinoku trail, but in combination with a visit to Akita as I was doing, that seemed to be impossible. So the next best thing was a long ride from Morioka to the coast through the scenic rural side of Iwate.

An excruciating 35 degrees at 10am. Maybe that is why Ryusendo Cave was so popular this morning; with its 10 degrees almost heaven. Or maybe it’s the start of the Obon holidays for many people. Or maybe it’s because it’s just a nice attraction.

Recently I have seen several caves in Japan (Akiyoshi Cave, Ryuga Cave). The Ryusendo cave is a little bit too one-sided to rank among the most impressive ones, but it’s still a nice place with as unique aspect the depth of the lakes inside and the ridiculously clear water.
Maybe 1100 yen entrance fee is a bit too much, but it’s still within reasonable range, so definitely worth a visit when passing by.

Then it was time to get my appetizer of the Michinoku trail by visiting the Kitayamazaki Cliffs. As earlier this year at Tottori’s Uradome Coast, I opted first to see the shoreline from the sea and afterwards from land.

Despite the heat and clear weather forecast, it was a very windy day at the coast, making for rather high waves. In many other parts of Japan I am pretty sure the cruise would be canceled with these conditions, but here the boat trip just went on as scheduled. The small ship sometimes seemed to be capsizing, but I personally found the rough swaying lovely (some of the other passengers needed the paper bags though). The beautiful coastline was of course worth the detour an sich, but this rough sea made it a whole new experience!
A 20 minute drive from the boarding point are the Kitayamazaki Cliff observation platforms. There are three of them, but the 3rd one strangely doesn’t offer any vista at all. The first 2 though offer some splendid views though.
While very hot, the wind and rough sea made that the cliffs were shrouded in an eerie mist. Yes, of course I would have wanted to see the coastline as far as the eye could reach. Of course I wanted to see it in all its splendor. But here’s the thing – I’ve never seen a coastline in these conditions before and I found it mysteriously compelling. In a sense it reminded me a bit of Osorezan, but a little less gloomy!

What you can't see in this picture: the clearness.

What you can't see in this picture: the depth.

Photo-bombing away.

Rough sea.

The Iwate coastline, or Rikuchu Coast as it’s called in this location, was hit very hard in the 2011 tsunami disaster. While driving you will notice many signs that signal to what height the waves hit the land. You will also obviously notice that almost everything is new or being rebuilt.
Located a 10 minute walk from the boarding point of the Kitayamazaki Cliffs cruise is the Shimanokoshi Station. It is rebuilt around 100 meters next and 10 meters above the old one which was destroyed by the tsunami and is now a little park. Some pictures show how it was before 2011: a crowded beach with in the background a picturesque station and a 2-wagon train riding by. The trainline has been rebuilt and I was lucky enough to see one of the infrequent trains pass by. There is no more beach though – it had to make place for a sea wall which hopefully offers a little protection against the sea.
The station also has disappeared. The only thing left in the little park as a small stone stairs, seemingly ripped apart from the building it used to offer entrance to.

Given that the ride from Morioka takes around 2 and a half hours one way, my visit to Kitamazaki Cliffs was also the only one to the coastline. I will however most definitely be back to discover more of the Iwate coastline – but then it will be on foot!