Matsumoto Part II: What Else?

What?
Matsumoto (松本) is a mountain city located in a plain in the very center of the Japanese Alps. While it serves mainly as a hub for nature lovers who want to hike the surrounding mountains or sports fans who want to explore the various ski slopes, the city can also be proud of its original castle that is designated as national treasure. The city is also home to various museums and views of and references to the surrounding alps are never far away.
Where?
Matsumoto is located in the very center of the Honshu Main island, in the very center of Nagano Prefecture and in the very center of the Japanese Alps. Getting there is easiest from Tokyo with the Azusa Limited Express Train. For people who have the JR Rail Pass, taking the Shinkansen to Nagano to transfer to the Shinano Limited Express is also an option. Coming from Kyoto getting to remote Matsumoto is a bit of a hassle. Whatever means of transport you use it will take time, so I mostly opt for a highway bus.
URL
Japan Guide Outline Visit Matsumoto Matsumoto Castle

Once you have visited all the major attractions of Matsumoto and once you have done the standard (and compulsory!) side trips to Kamikochi and Norikura, what do you do then? The normal tourist would travel on, and rightfully so, but if you fell in love with the place and don’t want to leave just yet there are a few opportunities left.

Within easy reach of the station there is the barely known Alps Park. This was my favorite getaway spot when I lived in Matsumoto. Well, “easy reach” means “not far away”, because with only two buses a day you can’t really talk about smooth access. Alternatively you can take a rental bicycle and walk up there. Yep, ‘walk’. Because between the station and Alps Park there is a height difference of 200 meters! Descending will go smooth though, guaranteed!

The park is a big area of event stages, picnic grounds and quiet walking paths. If I would have kids, this is where I would take them every weekend. A lot of place to run around, several playthings, a dream coaster and even an educational mini museum about bugs, beasts and nature. There is also a small zoo, but unfortunately it’s more sad than anything else. For grownups there are the walking courses and most of all stunning views on the surrounding villages with a backdrop of impressive mountain scenery.

Another option close to the station is following a workshop to make the famous Matsumoto temari balls. Advance reservation is necessary though, so it might not be the ideal option. Although it is rather expensive, it’s fun and the staff is really friendly. Check with Takagi souvenir shop.

Great vista from Alps Park.

The mini museum for kids.

Temari balls figure even on the ground.

The Azumino Wasabi Farm in poor weather...

If you don’t mind side trips there are the following options.

1/ Azumino wasabi farm
I have grown to like the Azumino wasabi farm. The first time I visited I didn’t get the fuss, but now I see the charm of the paddies with crystal clear water. There are various shops that sell anything with wasabi, like wasabi ice cream and wasabi beer. You can take a trip on the water with a glass bottom boat (highly influenceable by the weather though). But the best is still just strolling along the fields and enjoy the bustle.

2/ Tirol no Mori
Update 2024/1/27: Unfortunately, Tirol no Mori has definitely closed down in 2020.
Unknown to even most locals, there is a rather strange theme park in Matsumoto ‘s neighboring village Shiojiri. There’s a petting zoo with alpacas (no one does not like alpacas), the usual walking paths and various rides and attractions. Most a little old, but the nostalgia of for example weird bicycles is part of the fun.

3/ Hakuba Olympic Village
In winter Hakuba is of course the place to break your bones while pretending you can ski. In summer the place is awesome for some serious hiking, but you can also just go up there to take a look at the Olympic jumping platform and if you’re an early bird you can also pay to step in a hot air balloon. Ok, the balloons will not go anywhere because they are tied to a rope, but it is still a rather pleasant experience.

4/ Suwa Lake
A little further away is Suwa Lake. It’s not an attraction an sich, but the views are pretty and there’s a glass museum along the shore. I wouldn’t really recommend it but I am sure some people will find it fascinating. It’s quite large with exposition space and various (useful?) stuff for sale.

...but charming anyway.

The somewhat overlooked Tirol no Mori.

The 1998 Olympics jump site.

Usually the view from these balloons would be better!

5/ Farming in Yamagatamura
All around the center of Matsumoto and over the city borders lie farms that specialize in a variety of vegetables and fruits. Buying them in the supermarket or preferably at one of the many farmer’s markets is obviously a good way to taste these delicious treasures of the earth, but the best way to enjoy is to hand pick themselves. There are several farmers who invite tourists to their orchards, although they can be tricky to get to and most don’t speak English.
Nevertheless you can try it out, communication always follows one way or another.
- Fumondi Orchard in Shiojiri
- Katou Farm in Azumino
And my favorite
- Sasaen in Yamagata-mura

6/ Climbing to Kiyomizu-dera
No, this is not the world famous Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto. It’s a small temple half way up a mountain in the small and picturesque town of Yamagata-mura, right next to Matsumoto.
The climb is tiresome, but far away from civilization it has a spiritual feel to it.

7/ Attend a local football game
Do you like football? Well, truth to be told, the level of the J-League is not the highest in the world. But sometimes there is more to football than just the game.
Matsumoto Yamaga FC is the local pride and plays in the J2 League after having been relegated from the highest level in 2015, spending there only one year. Nevertheless, locals stand behind their team as one and usually have one of the highest home attendance (around 12,000 people) in the league.

I am pretty sure I did not even mention half of the interesting things to do around Matsumoto, but find out yourself, talk to the locals, find out why they love their Shinshu so very, very much.