Mount Arechi: Scrambling into the Rokko Range

What?
Mount Arechi (荒地山) is a 546 m peak in the Rokko Range (六甲山地). Although almost half the height of its more famous neighbor, Mount Rokko, the approach is quite different: instead of sandstone paths, the trail features large boulders that need scrambling, along with a pleasant forest walk. A little farther on lies Mount Higashi-Otafuku, or Higashi-Otafukuyama (東お多福山・696 m). It is the only mountain in the Rokko Range with open areas covered in Japanese pampas grass (susuki).
Where?
The Rokko Range in Hyogo Prefecture (兵庫県) is one of the most easily accessible mountain ranges in Japan. Simply take any train line connecting Osaka (大阪) and Kobe (神戸) and get off at a station with “Ashiya” in its name. Hankyu Railway’s Ashiyagawa Station (芦屋川) is the closest to the mountain slopes, but JR and Hanshin’s Ashiya Station (芦屋) are almost as convenient.
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Drawing inspiration from my “new” second-hand book Kansai Day-Hikes, I woke up very early and headed for the Rokko Mountain Range.
The Rokko Mountains are hugely popular in Kansai thanks to their extreme accessibility, so on a beautiful day like today I expected big crowds – hence it was still dark when I left home.

I wouldn’t be heading for the peak of Mount Rokko itself. Frankly, there isn’t much of interest up there, as it’s desecrated by a road, an ugly building, and a relay station. The slopes and neighbouring peaks, however, are a playground for outdoor lovers. This time I would head for the summit of Mount Arechi, then push through to Mount Higashi-Otafuku.

Pretty much any peak in the Rokko range is within walking distance of three railway lines running between Osaka and Kobe (JR, Hankyu, and Hanshin). Getting out at Hanshin Ashiya Station, the roughly 15-minute walk to the foot of the mountain gave me a chance to warm up a little. Still being dark outside, my arrival at the first viewing point – just meters from the trailhead – was perfectly timed to witness the sunrise. On previous hikes in the Rokko range I’d always had picture-perfect clear views, but this morning Kobe was shrouded in a thin layer of mist, offering a different yet equally beautiful image of the city. This sunrise view would also be my last glimpse of Kobe for the day, as any look toward the sea resulted in blind spots due to the strong backlight of the sun.

The early hour had its advantages too. Even though the approach from the station to the trailhead overlaps with the route toward the peak of Mount Rokko, there were barely any other hikers around. Even so, I soon left the two hikers I did see behind when I took the path toward Mount Arechi.

Many people act condescendingly toward the Rokko Mountains, but they often forget that this is an ascent from near sea level to almost 1,000 meters in just a few kilometers. On previous hikes to Mount Rokko and Mount Maya, I was surprised by how tough things could get. So it came as a surprise how gentle the initial incline was today, with plenty of switchbacks making progress easy. It almost felt like having a picnic.
But then, out of nowhere, the path turned into a bouldering course. At first the rocks were medium-sized and the trail was still recognizable, but soon it became nothing more than a wall of stones. There were no markers whatsoever. At one point I drifted slightly off route, unfortunately skipping one of the more iconic rock formations on the way up. Still, I had a lot of fun scrambling upward – though I know plenty of people who would freeze on the spot. I knew I was back on the trail when I spotted a chain and a very rickety ladder.
Still no signage, though, so up here you’re left with only your gut and your map. I’d strongly suggest holding on to that map.

Near the rickety ladder lies a huge slab of stone known as Table Rock. When the light isn’t too harsh, it offers beautiful views over Kobe, famously in the company of stray cats that come up here. While their little bowls were neatly tucked away in a visible spot, the cats themselves must have gone hunting, as there was no sign of them.
As suddenly as they had appeared, the huge rocks then disappeared again. The remainder of the trail toward the summit of Mount Arechi and a little beyond followed an easy forest path, immersed in lovely nature.

Rarely do I arrive on the trail so early.

I can assure you: this is the trail.

This reminded me of the tree in the HBO series Carnivale.

A slab of rock. Start climbing.

Up to this point, I was having a great time. The only drawback was a constant, irritating background noise. Like a lawn mower. Up here, I thought it couldn’t possibly be that… but then the trail cut straight through the local golf club, and that’s where the noise came from. I found the signs asking hikers to be quiet rather ironic, given that the sound was at its most annoying right here.
Even more irritating than the industrial grass cutters were the fences erected to separate the hiking trail from the golf course. Fences made from what I would call rusted, deformed garage doors.

Once the noise faded away, the trail widened and the surroundings shifted from forest to small open plains. I had arrived at the top of Higashi-Otafukuyama, though here too there were no markers whatsoever. Any remaining background noise had disappeared long ago, leaving me completely alone to enjoy a break in a small patch of trees, offering both shelter from the blinding sunlight and decent views into the valley. There’s a lot of susuki grass here, so it must be beautiful in autumn.

After a relaxed break with an onigiri, it was a straightforward descent toward the bus stop that marked the end of today’s hike. I especially enjoyed the bouldering section, though the forest paths were lovely as well. With its countless trails and incredible accessibility, there’s still plenty left for me to explore in the Rokko range.