Circling Otabu Island

What?
Otabujima or Otabu Island (大多府島) is a small island, the southernmost of the Hinase Isles (日生諸島), off the coast of Okayama (岡山). It’s too small to house any big touristic attractions, but it does have an old lighthouse still standing and a Nature Research Course (自然研究路) that circles the island and has some beautiful views of the Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海) and all its neighboring islands.
Where?
Otabu island in Okayama Prefecture (岡山県) can only be reached by taking a boat from nearby Hinase Port (日生港), not to be confused with the Hinase Station Mae Port (日生駅前港), which as the name implies is located right in front of Hinase Station (日生駅). Instead, after exiting Hinase Station on the JR Ako Line (赤穂線), turn right and follow the road for about ten minutes. There will be a small port with a minuscule pavilion: that’s where you want to be. Tickets should be purchased on the boat itself.
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Explore Okayama

It was an ice cold morning and my toes were already frozen before I set foot on the island. I was seriously questioning my good sense to go out today and walk along what would probably be a windy coastline.
Then again, I have always been a little bit cranky in the morning, so when the sun was actually up and I got to walking, I noticed it was a beautiful clear day with a gentle and calm sea.

Getting off the boat, there is one sign with a map of the island and of the Nature Research Course I was planning to walk (rest assured, there’s no need to do any research). There’s no indication of where the walk starts, so I decided to go right and counterclockwise. Along the way though it dawned on me that the makers of this course probably intended it to be walked clockwise. It doesn’t really matter though. Of course, I was here completely off season, but it’s clear that the course isn’t perfectly maintained (for those in doubt, that’s a euphemism). Whatever direction you will take, you’ll find yourself wondering at times where the path went to.
As a general rule, keep close to the shore and if in doubt head for the beaches or cliffs at sea level; you’ll probably find the path from there again. That’s not always true though, so don’t go wading off into the sea when there’s no other way. The island is so small though that there is no risk of getting lost.
The course should be accessible to anyone of all ages, but because it’s somewhat dilapidated that’s not the case and some bushwhacking is required at times.
It makes that the course doesn’t always proceed as smooth as it should, but that being said, there are three hours between boats and that should be more than enough.

A floating boat in Hinase Port.

A not-that-very-much-floating boat in Otabujima.

Nearby Ko Island seems to have more residents.

One of the few clear signs.

The first part is nice, not more not less. Some shoreline views, the picturesque houses on the nearest island and some birds chittering away.
Half way through though, at the point where little bodhisattvas turn up at every corner, the course really becomes beautiful with rugged shorelines and cliffs and no one around to disturb the gentle sloshing of the sea. To me, it is the ultimate form of relaxation.

Absolute highlight is the part where you follow a small path attached to the cliffs which ends up going right in between two steep rock walls and eventually runs dead at a small cave called the Kanzaburo Cave (勘三郎勘三郎). This part is only accessible when the sea is calm. In good and sunny weather like today it makes for the perfect spot to sit down and eat an onigiri (or whatever food you have brought).

The tour around the island took me a little more than two hours at a leisurely pace. Make sure to bring your own water and snack as there are no shops on the island (I did see a vending machine though, and in summer the beachside might have some snack stand, I’m not sure).