Small Suma Alps

What?
The Suma Alps (須磨アルプス) are a streak of small peaks in the suburbs of Kobe (神戸). They go up and down and have some ridiculously beautiful views of Osaka Bay (大阪湾) and the cities of Kobe and Akashi (明石). The path goes through a residential area, a forest and over some bald, sandy rock-cliffs.
Where?
The hike starts immediately next to Sumaura-koen Station (須磨浦公園駅) station on the Sanyo Main Line (山陽電気鉄道本線), a 10 minute train ride from Kobe-Sannomiya Station (神戸三宮駅), the main station of Kobe in Hyogo prefecture (兵庫県). It loops over the hills to drop you off a few hundred meters from Itayado Station (板宿駅) on the same train line.
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Kansai Scene

This hike taught me that no matter how easy you think things are going to be, you better be prepared. I didn’t have a proper breakfast and I felt that very soon. I didn’t bring a power bar and also didn’t care to buy one although there were vending machines on the platform of Sumaura-koen Station. And I lost the way for the first time since very long. It’s not that the way is difficult to find, it’s just that I was overconfident.

And why shouldn’t I be? The hike’s maximum height is around 300 meters and “everyone is doing it” - I forgot that whatever mountain you climb there will always be elderly Japanese people, or in today’s case a class of primary school students, to astound you with their mountaineering prowess.

So I was unpleasantly surprised that, yes, it’s not that high, but it goes from 0 to 260 meters from the very start. And after that it won’t be a comfortable ridge hike; you’ll be doing the same thing - up and down and up and down- again and again.
But rewards come quickly in the form of fantastic views over Osaka Bay, Kobe, Akashi, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and the mountains in Osaka and Wakayama. At regular intervals.

After crossing the first chain of (small) peaks you descend into a residential area. I felt a bit out of place passing the local supermarket in my hiking clothes. After crossing the apartment blocks and a highway, you literally bump into the next peak’s flank. You have to take a sharp turn left, walk a dozen meters and then sharply turn right to start climbing. And these sharp turns don’t allow you to see what will follow: an endless concrete stairway! I have to admit: I did die a little climbing those stairs on an empty stomach. But this is the hardest part, and its reward is proportional. The “real” Suma Alps are sandy rocks with a place called “the horseback” as highlight. It’s a saddle, but whatever. This is a spot where you can have lunch for a long, long time. Beautiful views in front of you of the rocky cliffs, beautiful views right of you of the forest, sea and far away mountains, impressive views left of you of the Kobe suburbs. It was enjoying this big time in the pleasantly warm autumn sun.
If you’re up to it you can go for the next series of peaks connecting with Mount Maya and eventually Mount Rokko, but I was satisfied and descended straight to Itoyado Station.

Strange kangaroo...

A first panorama over Kobe.

Never forget that those "Alps" are located in the suburbs!

And through those suburbs you will walk.

I recommended walking this hike in the direction I did: from Sumaura-koen to Itayado. Not only is the starting point way easier to find, there is also a nice buildup of highlights with the horseback as climax.

Also, do this hike with a close friend or two if they are available. You won’t be climbing an ethereal mountain of silence (there’s always light chatter of other hikers and some city noise lurks around every corner) and you won’t be going here for the rare wildlife. So it’s much more enjoyable if there are some people you could share the beautiful views with.