Confusing Signage at Yamanobe-no-Michi

What?
Yamanobe-no-Michi (山の辺の道) claims to be the oldest recorded route of Japan. I’m sure in other parts of Japan they have communities that claim the same about their old pathways. Whatever the case, Yamanobe-no-Michi is a very old walking trail between Nara (奈良) and Sakurai (桜井). Nowadays the section between Tenri Station (Isonokami Shrine 石上神社) and Miwa Station (Omiwa Shrine 大神神社) is the most popular. The path mainly consists of dirt tracks through farm fields and a vast array of temples and shrines.
Where?
The stretch between Tenri Station (天理駅) and Miwa Station (三輪駅) in Nara Prefecture (奈良県) can be started either way. Both stations lie on the JR Sakurai line (JR桜井線) and can easily be accessed from JR Nara Station (JR奈良駅). From both station it’s a 20 to 30 minute walk to the nearby shrines which lie on the Yamanobe-no-Michi trail.
URL
Visit Nara Japan Guide Outline Japan Guide Travel Report

Many sites claim the walking route is well and easy to follow. Let me debunk this myth right away. There is an abundance of signs and arrows, that is true. But there are way too many of them, far from positioned correctly, often changing shapes, regularly in whatever language the people who put up these signs thought up first, and worst of all, completely absent at crucial intersections.
Due to the pandemic I only counted 4 other groups of hikers, and two of those were as confused as me trying to get around.
That being said, once there are no signs for about 3 minutes you know you will have to turn back. Apart from the regular backtracking, the walk was a very pleasant outdoor activity, especially after being cooped up for a month.

Getting off at Tenri Station, it’s easy to find the way though. Follow the signs and walk alongside the eerie empire of the Tenrikyo sect. I can’t put it any other way; those huge buildings all look alike, all look ready to crumble down at any moment and they all look like they’re about to harbor a mass suicide attempt soon.
Arriving at the Isonokami Shrine is truly a breath of fresh air, even though you might argue that it’s just trading one religion for an another. Maybe the 20 or so roosters of the shrine have anything to do with the feeling of return to normality – they didn’t care about anything and merrily went on screaming for daylight (which had already arrived for quite a while).
Leaving the shrine I immediately found the trail. But 20 minutes in, it dawned on me that the Tenrikyo stronghold was on my wrong side; I had unfortunately taken the wrong direction. With all the confusing signs it took me a while to get on track, but once I did I thoroughly enjoyed the journey.

The route passes many little shrines, a lot of farmland and the unmanned selling booths that come with those. Usually I happily buy something, but most of the stalls were empty , most likely due to the corona virus.
The first major stop along the road is the Chogakuji Temple (長岳寺). This temple is worth the small detour and the required 400 yen entrance fee. Quaint, well maintained and beautifully laid out. Additionally, it's as local as it can get with what must be the town’s complete elderly population and a bunch of cats who can at the same time look lazy and murderous. “Do not disturb” was the clearly understood message.

The headquarters of the Tenrikyo believers.

One of the many, many roosters at Isonokami Shrine.

The thatched roof Yatogi Shrine. The first I have encountered in its kind.

Most of the time, the path meanders like this through farmer's fields.

Continuing, I was pleasantly looping part of the tomb of this or that emperor (Japan has had more emperors than I have hair on my behind). That loop was followed by another around the next tumulus. One never gets the impression of having left the world of the living, but walking those dirt paths through graveyards big and small, tiny towns, temple ruins and farming fields half attended to, it does feel a bit like walking on the edge of civilization. With the rolling green hillside continuously accompanying you at either your left or right side (depending on where you started your hike) it might just as well be true.

The next big stop is Hibara Shrine (桧原神社), which simplicity had some charming attractiveness. I ate an ice cream in the shop next door. As most of the other shops and cafes were closed, this small support of local economy was the least I could do.
From here on things went haywire. Arrows became paved “guiding stones” and ran in all directions. I never took my eyes of them but still ended up crossing a railroad. This obviously wasn’t a good omen. I stupidly kept on following the signs but eventually realized I was looping back! Really, less signs but more clear ones please!!

I left the last Omiwa shrine for what it was, turned around and followed the tracks to my end destination Miwa Station.
All in all, despite the utterly confusing signage I had a great walk! Anyone appreciating small towns and countryside will surely enjoy the Yamanobe-no-Michi trail.
I finished the whole route in about 4 hours. I maintained quite a brisk pace, but that’s definitely balanced out by my regular side-dwellings.