Fukuroda Falls (& Koriyama)

What?
The Fukuroda Falls (袋田の滝) are considered as one of the 3 most beautiful waterfalls in Japan, the other 2 being the Kegon Waterfall (華厳の滝) in Nikko and Nachi Waterfall (那智の滝) in Wakayama Prefecture. The Fukuroda Falls is 120 meters high and 73 meters wide, and it crushes down in 3 steps that are visible from both below as above on special viewing platforms. Koriyama (郡山) is a city in Fukushima Prefecture (福島県) serving as a transfer hub for several train lines.
Where?
The falls are located in the northern part of Ibaraki Prefecture (茨城県) in the small rural town of Daigo (大子町). Getting there will take you a long trip on the JR Suigin Line (水郡線). Leaving the train in Fukuroda Station (袋田駅) it will still take you 45 minutes on foot to get to the actual entrance of the falls. Shuttle buses also run but quite irregularly and the walk through the Japanese countryside can work soothing.
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Japan Guide Outline Ibaraki Guide

Finishing a work-related event in Sendai I decided to visit Ibaraki Prefecture. The prefecture is known in Japan as the worst to live and as the one that has the least to offer. That’s not what I’m saying, that’s what I heard from the Ibaraki residents themselves! But through those self-deprecating words I noticed a certain pride; it doesn’t matter what the whole of Japan thinks – we like it here.

The most famous spot in Ibaraki Prefecture must be the Fukuroda Waterfalls. It is listed as one of the 3 most beautiful falls in Japan. Getting there takes a lot of time. The only train line running close is the JR Suigun Line which is as scenic as it is infrequent. So I spend around 3 hours travelling from Sendai to Fukuroda, and those 2 places aren’t really that far apart
The staff at the hotel willingly gave me a ride to the entrance of the waterfalls. And I immediately noticed: this is a tourist trap!

No, not in the way that there is actually nothing to see, but in the way that streets are crammed with souvenir shops and that the people at the falls know how they have to cue people. Now I went there late in the afternoon on a rather cloudy weekday in the heart of the too humid summer, so I was so to speak alone – my luck! However talking to one of the employees it seems that in the weekends and during foliage season the line starts directly after the ticketing booth. My estimate is that it would take you more than an hour to only catch a glimpse of the waterfall – from a very bad spot that is.

That being said, I was lucky. There might have a been a handful of other customers, so I didn’t have anything to complain about overcrowding.
To see the waterfall you have to cross a tunnel. The first exit to the right gives you some kind of “lover’s view”, but really, you should just skip this. You also should skip the second exit to the right, but only just for now; this will allow you to go back through a different route. The 3rd exit is what we’re looking for: a stunning view on the lower part of the 3-tier waterfalls.
Right nearby there is an elevator that takes you up to a viewing point where you can see the Fukuroda falls in all its glory. As you understand while reading this, tunnels and elevators aren’t exactly the beauty of nature. Nevertheless the views on the falls are amazing and the status of one of the 3 major falls in Japan might just as well be justified. I dreamt away for around 30 minutes I think before heading back towards exit nr. 2.

Actually, beyond Fukuroda Falls there is another waterfall called Namase Waterfall (生瀬滝), and according to the map you receive it is accessible from here. You do have to climb a crazy amount of unsteady stairs… just to arrive at a faraway viewing platform. I expected a view more up close so I was pretty disappointed. So unless you really love waterfalls, don’t take the stairs!! There is also a hiking course that has the reputation of being rather enjoyable, but as I lacked the time I went down the stairs again and followed the river back to the starting point.

Fukuroda Falls seen from the upper platform.

The middle part of the falls.

Exit nr.2 towards the Namase Falls.

Close up of the Namase Falls. In reality they're far away.

Walking back to the station it takes another 45 minutes, but the surroundings are really beautiful. This is what authentic Japanese countryside looks like, and I suspect it to be rather soothing for most people who walk across.

Before all this I had some time in Fukushima Prefecture’s Koriyama because of the infrequency of the Suigun train line. I checked out the Asaka-Kunitsuko Shrine, the 21st Century Anniversary Park and the Hayama Park. These are not worth to get of the train, but if you have the time anyway, they make for a leisurely stroll.