Further into Kumano

What?
Kumano 熊野 lies on a pilgrimage route connecting the Kumano Sanzan with Ise. The Matsumoto Pass 松本峠 is one of the few parts of the route that has been left as it was. Other attractions in Kumano City are - Onigajo 鬼ヶ城, a coastline that has been created by upheavals, wind erosion and waves into a natural "Demon's Castle"; - Shishi-iwa 獅子岩, another rock formation created by natural elements. It is said to resemble a lion looking out on the sea; - Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine 花の窟神社, which houses the grave of diety Izanami according to legend.
Where?
I stayed at a hotel close to Odomari station 大泊駅 in Mie Prefecture (三重県) from where I set off in the morning to explore Onigajo and the Matsumoto Pass. Once the pass crossed, I walked along the shoreline (the longest gravel beach of Japan) towards Shishi-iwa and Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine. After strolling around town for a while I took the train home in Kumano-shi Station 熊野市駅.
URL
Japan Guide Outline Kumano City Tourism

After hopping by the Nachi Falls I was planning to visit Onigajo in Kumano followed by a short hike along the Matsumoto-pass. Onigajo was impressive, but spoiled by a bus of fellow tourists. They also prevented me to jump the fence to the more impressive staircases in the coastline rock formation. I wouldn't be the only one to do that, seeing the fishermen at places otherwise unreachable.

Planning to trace my way back to the start of the Matsumoto pass, I instead took the steep staircases to the "remains of Onigajo" 鬼ヶ城跡. Not having read about it in any guide, I did not expect too much. Indeed, these were no ruins, but just a park located at the top of the mountain. A beautiful view over the bay, a proud feeling of being alone in this part of nature AND a shortcut to the Matsumoto-pass were my part. Walking through dense forest, my bad mood caused by the bus of tourists disappeared quickly. The shortcut to the Matsumoto pass was a way better option than taking the highway, however as I arrived in the middle of the pass, I decided to walk back to start and do the complete pass on one strike. The beautiful staircases, old trees and subsequent feeling I was shot back in time were more than worth it.

Fisherman overlooked by a water bird.

Steep staircases on the Matsumoto Pass.

After completing the Matsumoto pass I walked through the small and uneventful center of Kumano city. Not seeing anything of interest I walked along the highway towards Shishi-iwa, a rock formation in the shape of a lion - or so they say. To me, it looked more like a predator bird, but the formation is impressive nontheless. It is just such a shame that they build a busy road passing in a range of 10 meters... I was expecting a lot about the Hana-no-Iwaya shrine, declared world heritage, but it was a huge disappointed. With the size of a small Japanese apartment, one big rope spanned between a tree branch and a stone rock and a noisy highway running next to it, this place had nothing to offer. A bit disappointed I waited for 45 minutes on the next train.

I got off at Matsusaka station 松阪駅 in the hope to find some interesting manholes to get rid off the bad aftertaste Hana-no-Iwaya gave me, and look, there was this very fun manhole which turned the balance again in a positive way!